Change rear gears or go to 11R24.5?

Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by BulletProof, May 17, 2014.

  1. Largecar359

    Largecar359 Road Train Member

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    Yeah I'm out of New Jersey I run out your way a bunch. The hills on 80 is def a good place to save fuel splitting gears. The RTLO 13s is what your going to like the best. They have a bunch of different models the only difference is the torque ratings. 16913a,18913a,20913a, all of them are basically the same model just the first two numbers define their torque ratings. Normally the higher the torque rating the higher the price. But not always the case. The RTLO part is important that's low inertia. Translates to finer teeth smoother shifts. I'm not an expert on transmissions I'm sure others could help you. However, I've done a lot of research on this b/c I changed from a 15spd to 13spd two yrs ago in one of my tractors and spent a lot of time learning about the new technology out there. I'm an old school guy so I had to learn about trans all over again. Any of the models I listed above will do what your looking for. All have the same final drive .73 so top speed will be the same. Hope this helps you a little.
     
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  3. BulletProof

    BulletProof Medium Load Member

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    I thought most 13s were. 74 and 10s were .73?
     
  4. Largecar359

    Largecar359 Road Train Member

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    Final drive is 0.73 on the 13 and 18 speed. The 10 speed zinnita says he has is a direct drive tranny. 1.00 final drive.
     
  5. 201

    201 Road Train Member

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    Not sure if this is true, but I heard 24.5 tires are getting kind of hard to find. I drove a Freightliner with a 500, S60 Detroit, 13, and 3.55 on 22.5's and that thing did just fine @ 70.
     
  6. ‘Olhand

    ‘Olhand Cantankerous Crusty

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    [QUOTE="semi" retired;4022221]Not sure if this is true, but I heard 24.5 tires are getting kind of hard to find. I drove a Freightliner with a 500, S60 Detroit, 13, and 3.55 on 22.5's and that thing did just fine @ 70.[/QUOTE]
    Tall rubber 24's can be a challenge on the road(ie truck stop chains)but most larger truck tire retailers still stock em--24 low pros are typically readily available--but again since a majority of the larger carriers are all 22 low--most of the typical truck stops etc carry more of these.....
    Now to the OP--do whatever--buy whatever you want..not gonna get into that debate,,,But--if your goal is fuel mileage exclusively --Long hood 379 w/an accert is NOT the way to go..oh and BTW--I have owned driven Long Hood Pete's EXCLUSIVELY since my first 82 359--would want anything else....
    And lastly--do yourself a favor--and get/request oil samples form them--TMC--from what I understand does a pretty good job w/their PM programs--but--all the truck on their site are relatively high mileage--and PROPER CAT rebuilds are NOT cheap...
    Just my $.02
     
  7. skateboardman

    skateboardman Road Train Member

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    the specs must be off on those trucks, with a 13 , 3.55 rears and lp 22.5 I turn 1300 at 62 mph, if you are going to run 70 with that c15 you aren't going to get fuel mileage. why not just leave the low pros and simply slow down??
     
  8. BulletProof

    BulletProof Medium Load Member

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    I've said it a few times but people seem to miss it somehow. I AM NOT WORRIED ABOUT THE FUEL MILEAGE. I am looking at how high the rpms will be at a certain speed because I dont want it to be spinning to high heaven just to run 70mph. Not looking at the mileage. Looking at keeping the rpms low and increasing the longevity of the engine.

    Skateboardman, go back and read the last paragraph in post number 4.
     
  9. skateboardman

    skateboardman Road Train Member

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    I read post #4
    I guess I cant understand how someone who is just becoming an owner /op, and is driving for a company at the moment can think that fuel mileage is not important.

    if you are worried about the longeveity of engine buying one with 900,000 on it with time sensitive freight isn't the way to go in my opinion. cause rebuilding could be sooner than later

    and running one of those cats at 1500 with 22.5 lo-pro and a 13 speed will get you 72 mph, but that acert will love the fuel pump at that speed and rpm, the acert is a different cat than the other kitties, I love mine pulls great , but I keep her at 1275 to 1300 at 60 to 61 and average right at 7 get up to 72 and I am in the 5 range , at todays prices, from 7 to 5 mpg is about 23,500 dollars worth of fuel in one year on 100,000, well enough and have vacation money left to get a platinum at the cat shop with head and turbos.

    not worrying about fuel mileage and owning a truck is like Chinese to me I cant understand it.

    I think you just think at the moment you aren't worried about mileage and have been blinded by a black and chrome peter car, I hope that freight you are going to pull pays over well over 2 bucks a mile both ways, you are gonna need it.

    that's just my perspective, from owning one a while. olhand you gave solid advice also.

    perhaps you should look at some other trucks instead that are spec more to your drivetrain requirements
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2014
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  10. BulletProof

    BulletProof Medium Load Member

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    Perhaps I should have elaborated more on the fuel. I am not worried about fuel as far as this discussion goes. I am simply trying to figure out what will be more cost effective to get the RPMs where I want them at a certain speed. Not getting better overall fuel mileage. This particular discussion is specifically about changing gears vs changing tires to get the optimum RPMs for the speed I want the truck to run at. Once I have that figured out, I can look at other ways to save on fuel.

    The ACERT CAT is definitely not my first choice of engine. If it were up to me I would have one with a detroit or ISX or the 6NZ motor. I haven't been blinded by a shiny Pete. Is a pete the truck I want? Absolutely. I want an all metal truck. Not a fiberglass and plastic truck. I want something that will hold its value so when I am ready for an upgrade, I can get a maximum return on it if I keep it nice (which I will). If I were hauling 40k pound loads all the time I would be a little more worried about fuel mileage and might back off of a pete and get something like a freightliner but seeing as I rarely haul over 12k, I can sacrifice a little bit of aero be cause the load is so light. I have seen with my own eyes 379's getting 7.5mpg running 70mph. It is all in how the truck is spec'd and the loads you haul.

    As far as the mileage goes, any truck can break. I could spend 50k on a truck tomorrow that has 200k miles and it end up sending a rod through the block the next day. It is all a gamble. No matter what truck I get, an inframe will be done immediately so that is why the mileage isn't a factor to me. Yes I know they are around 20k and there is money set aside for that already. I actually have a few very good friends at our cat dealer and I get parts at cost so that is a plus.

    If I were to find another truck that was set up the way I wanted for around the same price as the TMC trucks, I would be all over it. The problem is, it is hard to find a decent 379 with a 13 speed, one of the engines I mentioned above, good tires, and in as good of shape as the ones that TMC have for sale at the same price and I have been looking for the past few months.
     
  11. Largecar359

    Largecar359 Road Train Member

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    Skateboardman is kinda missing the question I think. You want the truck to run 68-72 mph and not have the truck winding out all day and night. Running 62 mph does not answer the question. You will get 7 mpg at 72 mph with the right set-up for the c-15. If he sets the truck up to run between 1275-1350 rpm at 70 mph. He will keep the motor where it likes to run and get best mpg with the least wear and tear on the motor which is his goal. The speed limit in the majority of Texas is 70-75 mph, 62 mph will make him look like a fleet truck out there. Gearing the truck correctly is everything.
     
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