Change Your Own Oil?

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by tallmon, Dec 26, 2014.

  1. tallmon

    tallmon Medium Load Member

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    New O/O here with a 2007 T600 with Cummins ISX. Prior owner had the local T/A do all PM's. A little over $300 for every "ultimate PM" every 15k miles.

    1) How many of you guys do your own PM/grease?

    2) I've never changed the oil on a diesel before but I do all my own auto repair work (brakes/oil/hoses etc) on my car and friend's cars so I somewhat know my around. Is their a resource online that tells how to do the full oil change/grease job/filters and which filters get changed out?

    thanks
     
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  3. EHB

    EHB Medium Load Member

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    You better check the amount of oil you need and buckets to store the oil.

    And how much it will cost.

    Lots of rags and 5 gallon buckets.

    Some trucks require a CPU to reset the change oil indicator most do not.

    Oil changes may vary on where and what weights you are hauling.

    1000 miles in the woods from anyone could be a problem.
     
  4. rollin coal

    rollin coal Road Train Member

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    Nothing to it. Pay someone $300 or DIY in about an hour saving $150. No different than a car other than it takes more oil and you also have a fuel filter. Get someone to show you where all the grease fittings are.
     
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  5. FLATBED

    FLATBED Road Train Member

    Disposing of the old oil can become a hassle
     
    Straight Stacks and 201 Thank this.
  6. tallmon

    tallmon Medium Load Member

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    My local transfer station let's me drop off as much as I want, within reason.
     
  7. 04 LowMax

    04 LowMax Medium Load Member

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    If you are pretty mechanical (and it sounds like you are) you should be ok. You'll need a method to deal with 10 gallons of oil that's going to come pouring out when you pull the plug.
    You can get a drain gizmo that lets you stop and start the flow, so that you don't get a big mess. They work well. Before I had that, I used what I called my "oil-o-boggan" I bought a cheap plastic toboggan specifically for catching the oil. It worked well so that I didn't get a big mess on the shop floor, then I just had to transfer it to pails after. Tip 1: use care that you get the drain plug snug without overdoing it, and for pete's sake don't crossthread it (easy to do on a lot of them, fine thread). You'll need a big filter wrench to get the oil filter off. Be sure to lube the gasket good or it can be a stinker to get loose next time, you might end up destroying the filter and using chains and boomers to get it off. (How do I know this?:biggrin_25519:. Greasing is important too, I make sure to get under and do the 5 u joints every 1000-1500 miles because if one of them lets go do to lack of grease, it's a bad news day, which was preventable. Nobody is going to take an interest in your truck the same as you will, and it's good to be under there frequently so that you can keep an eye on things and maybe catch problems ahead of time. That's my thoughts. (Welcome to the world of being an o/o BTW).
     
  8. Hammer166

    Hammer166 Crusty Information Officer

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    That's a typo, I hope? I did mine every 15K and all the original joints were still in good shape at 800K miles.
     
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  9. BeenJammin

    BeenJammin Light Load Member

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    And don't forget, if you drain, store or sell 50 gallons or more of waste oil, the EPA considers you a class one generator, and you had better be registered for such actions. Then you better have the required equipment to do it by their standards. Yeah, it's really simple, until they show up at your door. Now why do businesses have to charge an environtmental surcharge? Don't forget you must have an EPA approved catch basin around your waste oil storage as well. There is no limit on the size of approved containers, only mandatory criteria in relations to spillage of containers. Also know that anyone can report what you do to the EPA without repercussions. Then there is the regulations on how to properly dispose of your filters. Guess you better stay off the radar, and don't make your neighbors mad. Then there's the fact of being on an international forum declaring what you're doing and some with their location. I forgot to mention the amount of liabilty insurance you need in case of spillage clean up.
     
    KB3MMX and 201 Thank this.
  10. Diesel Dave

    Diesel Dave Last Few of the OUTLAWS

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    Why do it yourself when by the time you spend your time on your labor and buying the oil, filters, grease, etc, a local reliable reputable lube shop will cost you the same. I use to do all the work myself, now to a point you learn through out the years as an O/O, when it either more cost effeceint to do it yourself or not, UNLESS you buy in BULK then I might say it might be worth doing yourself. Good example: I will do all my brake work. there you would save a enough where it would be worth it doing it yourself, among other jobs.

    P.S. It cost me around $230.00 for full service with CAT filters.
     
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2014
    "semi" retired Thanks this.
  11. skateboardman

    skateboardman Road Train Member

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    dave that's my usual cost, also for a cat. if I do my ownthe chepest here I get my mobil delvac is 10.87 a gallon for mobil delvac, filters 2 fuel and 1808 oil run around 60 to 65 dollars, then two tubes of grease , I got 180.00 in materials and ten gallons of used oil. I only save 50 to 60 bucks doing it myself, I rather save it for on the road in downtime, not doing that at home.
     
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