changing head gasket on paccar mx13 epa 10... help!!!

thanks for ur post here .. especially the pdf download.. I started working on it yesterday.. ive got most of the outside components off.. wow I didt realize the turbo had so much water in it. lol water everywhere.. by the way I trying to remove only those things that are absolutely necessary to remove the head.. today I work on driver side. and maybe pull the valve cover and the valve stuff.. maybe even get to un bolt the head.. I have a couple questions tho.. wonder if you might know ? there is a sequence to removing the head bolts as well as installing them. according to the diagram in the pdf there is like 32 bolts? my bad.. 33 bolts.. but are some of those bolts for like the lifter push rods and stuff? or are they all bolts just for the head? guess ill find out once I pull the valve cover.. but id like to know ahead of time so I know what to look for.. my second question is related to the tightening torque sequence . the diagram talks about phases 1-4.. tightening to lb-ft. where as phases 3 and 4 are 90 degree.. am I right in thinking that starting with phase one you go around all the blots in the pattern to the specified torque, then phase two repeat to the next torque value? then phases 3 and 4 repeat the sequence again but not to a torque value but is it a 90 degree turn of the bolt? like torque to the ft-lb value on the first two phases then give the bolts an extra 90 degree turn on the 3rd and 4th phases? ive notice there is a cross patter draw with marker on the bolt heads that I can see exposed already.. so im thinking those are marks for a 90 degree turn? im also assuming the definition of a phase is a full go around on torqueing the bolts? 1-33 is a phase? hope my questions are understandable.. im not up on tech speak.. lol

 

thnks for ur reply.. yeah I know how it is when a driver tries to blame the shop for something that is totally unrelated..heard it a million times too. well last week I was losing turbo pressure..after checking it out I found that the egr flex pipe coming off the exhaust manifold to the egr valve was split open.. big ole hole in it.. had to replace the pipe to the tune of $500 bucks just for the pipe. ok so I changed it myself and the whole egr assembly was loose. from where it 90's down to the clamp. up to the egr valve and to the flex pipe was loose.. took that bottom clamp apart and found no gasket there. so I was kinda mad about that.. but ok replace the $16 dollar gasket and gaskets for the 6 inches of flex pipe that blew out plus the 500 dollar 6 inch flex pipe itself.. but I was still wondering why the assembly was loose> yesterday after tearing down that side I found out why. the three blots that hold the bracket that its mounted too were not installed.. they were just laying there on the side of the block.. that's amazing to me that they were still there.. so the egr was mounted to the bracket that is bolted to side of engine but that bracket was not bolted up to the engine.. smh… so that is the reason why the entire egr assembly is loose.. guess it was enough movement that it caused a split in the 6 inch flex pipe.. causing loss of boost. so yeah I mean if one bolt fell out of the holding bracket I could think ok so maybe vibration? but all three bolts? idk.

 

thanks again for your help. your tips like the hand pumping fuel through the EUP's to dislodge any debris is amazing.. I never would have thought of that. by the way is there a way to check those pumps to see if the check ball is damaged? could a guy attach the fuel pipe to the pump with installing to head then use the hand primer to fill with fluid flushing both pump and pipe? watch pipe to see if the fuel drains back down or should it remain in pipe? or is there a simpler method?
ok now abt injectors.. I saw on a video that said if you change the injectors they will need to be recalibrated with the computer or truck wont run.. a mechanic I talked to yesterday asked me if I pulled the injectors.. I said I will leave them in because I don't have access to a computer .. he has one but don't have the davies 4, he told me that as long as I don't change the injectors, if I am using the same injectors I took out then the calibration wont need to be done.. is this true? I would really like to remove the injectors before pulling the head off. I don't want to damage any.
my next question is about the torqueing sequence again. maybe im a little thick in the head lol but im confused abt something.
by the way I did remove the bolts in the same pattern as the diagrams show.. in reverse order of installation .. started with the m12.I loosened em up a little went on to the m18's, loosened em up a little, then repeated a couple times lossening them up a little more each time. hope I did it right.

ok installing the bolts after replacing gasket.. so in the installation diagram, bolt #1 is in the middle of the block between cylinders 3&4. those are the M18 bolts. phases 1,2,3. all say M18 bolts.so for phases 1-3 im only working with the M18 bolts? skipping the M12's, then on phase 4 im tightening the M18's their final 90 degree and then starting on the M12,s 44 ft-lb,s, then phase 5 is only the m12,s the extra 120 degree turn?.. also you mentioned 120 degrees is two flats.. is that two flat sides of the bolt head?.. so sorry for my numbscullery ..
by the way. I was planning on replacing all the head bolts. I always thought that was a crucial thing due to bolt stretching? a set of new head bolts is about 5 or 6 hundred bucks.. from reading the posts here from you and the other guys I have learned that I can re use the same bolts.. I also went back and re read in the PDF where it also said that.. missed it before.. so super thanks for that..