Checking boost system for leak?

To check CAC you need to remove intake pipes from the cooler. Then they put special blanking plugs in the boots to seal the cooler off. Plugs also have safety chains that tie onto truck in case the plugs blow out. 1 blanking plug has a regulator plumbed into it. Cooler is pressured to mfg spec and monitored for pressure loss over a specified time period. Excessive pressure loss indicates a cooler that needs to be replaced due to a leak.

 

NorthernMechanic is correct.

The way I tested mine, by myself (insert idiot warning here). PVC pipe from local hardware shop. I bought two ends, and caps. Threaded a brass fitting into it. used the existing hose and clamps to secure the caps. Pressurized it to a constant 30psi, and sprayed soapy water to find the leak(s). Worked perfect, and cost $10-20.
Good luck!

 

P.S. I'm sure others can get creative with this and test intake gasket etc... But NEVER leave your turbo connected! Any spinning it does will not be oiled.

 

No ash and smoke out here. Taking a forced vacation in BC and its been raining steady the last couple days.

 

I always get a kick out of how badly people worry about the turbo spinning with no oil.
And I'm a shade tree wrench at best.
However I'd bet you a new turbo that you could let that wheel and bearing spin in the breeze for days with no damage. It's the heat and pressure and very fast speeds of your turbo when it's actually on s running engine that would kill it fast with no oil.

Anyone else agree?

 

i agree 100% lester not realy sure how the turbo is going to spin with the motor not running in the first place

 

While you can plug both sides of cooler I like to pull pipe off turbo and pressurize with intake connected to inlet of motor. Ive seen guys pressure up cooler but miss intake manifold or air compressor inlet leaking