Had someone adjust the clutch, but in order to slow the shaft it was adjusted to where I don’t really have any free play! Had to head to Laredo, and when I got up to speed I can feel it slipping around 13-1600 rpm. Currently at TA to see if they can get it adjusted right. It never slipped until now.
Clutch brake? Clutch?
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by Dallison, Sep 19, 2021.
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It looks like the adjustment bolt is stuck "in"(hard to tell if that's it in the pic). Sometime s you have to wiggle it to get to come back out. If it is, its a quick way to burn up a clutch. Also, they need to set the distance between the release bearing and clutch brake to 1/2 ''. Then adjust the linkage until the release bearing fork is 1/8'' away from the ears on the bearing. This should give you 1-1/2- 2" of free play in your pedal.
black_dog106, Rideandrepair and Magoo1968 Thank this. -
this one has a sort of lock strip, remove the right side bold and it comes off giving access to the adjusting nut from what I gather. I’m betting he didn’t adjust linkage, he had me pressing in the clutch most of the time and now that I think of it idk how he got the time to adjust the linkage.Dave_in_AZ, Ross_Tech and Rideandrepair Thank this.
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Once the clutch is properly adjusted, (1/2" between bearing and brake, and 1/8" between forks and bearing), you then adjust free play. HOWEVER, once you've adjusted free play once, then you never have to adjust it again. (you're not even supposed to adjust for linkage wear, you're supposed to replace the linkage) Simply adjusting the clutch will fix the free play automatically. So in this case, he either messed up the clutch adjustment, or your linkage was adjusted incorrectly at one point in time.
With the clutch engaged,(pedal out like you're driving) crawl under there and see if you can stick a 1/2" extension between the friction faces of the brake and throwout bearing. It should just barely fit. If it won't fit, or there's a lot of space still, then it needs adjusted again. This is something you can do right now in about 30 seconds with a 1/2" extension from your socket set, and a flashlight.black_dog106 and Rideandrepair Thank this. -
Should never touch the linkage. Set it and forget it. All adjustments should be done on the clutch itself.
black_dog106, D.Tibbitt, Magoo1968 and 1 other person Thank this. -
When adjusted to spec, it does not slow down shaft to let me get it in gear. I’m in Laredo, Tx and have to get it to Denver, CO. Think I should try to make it home bobtail?
Rideandrepair Thanks this. -
I had a clutch linkage break and it was Christmas season I couldn’t get the part anywhere. I made it home 1400 miles by shutting off at lights and starting in bull low. It wasn’t too difficult. In your case you have a clutch so it should be a breeze if you stop at lights in gear like we’re supposed too.
Rideandrepair and God prefers Diesels Thank this. -
That’s right. The linkage May be out of whack, due to wear or even Cab mounts, motor mounts being worn. Maybe it was off for a while. Probably could use a new clutch. But I was able to adjust mine, first. then adjust the linkage for freeplay. Same as a first time new clutch adjustment. I got what seemed like a totally shot clutch to last another year. Might be able to get it working right for a while.Dave_in_AZ, Magoo1968 and God prefers Diesels Thank this.
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When I first got my truck, I guess someone thought adjusting the linkage was the same as adjusting the clutch. Truck had zero free play at the time as well. I mean ZERO. The clutch pedal was so tight, there's no way the clutch was getting full engagement. Once I adjusted the clutch, I had FOUR INCHES of free play!black_dog106, Dave_in_AZ, Magoo1968 and 1 other person Thank this.
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