It is not a fun job but does not take long. I charge 2 hours to do it however. Have to be covered up real good and it is hard on leathers and such. If you are not good with a torch do not try to learn on this job.
Clutch brake removal
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by mile marker 27, Mar 23, 2021.
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AModelCat, Dino soar, Isafarmboy and 4 others Thank this.
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With the introduction of the first RoadRangers Eaton used to also call the clutch brake an upshift brake. To be used for faster upshifts. They would tell you to squeeze against the brake during the first double clutch into neutral.
It was even in a old training slide show video they did in the late 60’s when the RT/RTO9513’s came out.
I’ve seen recent manuals from Eaton still mention this technique.mile marker 27 and Final Drive Thank this. -
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BoxCarKidd and mile marker 27 Thank this.
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a straight cutting torch is nice to have if its not all greasy up there. a long shank air chisel will do it. if you have an old one cut it apart to see where the weakest part is in there. the center portion is hard steel with a softer steel can on it. i use the handcuff style replacements. you need to be dam sure the pin sets all the way in. i have a wire with a washer on it for a spacer to set the pin hard. loosen it up and follow the directions before installing.
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There are situations that only a 2 piece make sense. If your gonna do it use the Eaton part. Only one worth installing. I would not split a tractor or pull engine for a clutch brake. Its getting a 2 piece or multiples till it needs a actual clutch.
AModelCat and BoxCarKidd Thank this. -
I never had much luck with those push in shims or using a chisel.
Some things I look for are is the brake locked to the shaft or can you spin it on the shaft because the inner tabs are broken off? It it spins it is trash. If it is trash is the shaft worn down from it spinning? Waist of time putting a new brake on a badly worn shaft.
With this type clutch after installation normally only the pressure plate is adjusted. If someone starts adjusting the linkage like a car things get all out of wack. Then go back to the standard 1/2" clutch brake gap with free play held out and an 1/8" gap at the tips of the forks fully released. I have probably adjusted some of them 15 notches. When you find a pressure plate that far out of adjustment it has a fair rate of failure after adjustment. The linkage also takes some time to correct. Then sometimes the top of the clutch fork rubs on the pressure plate when it is fully depressed.
Worn front bearing covers, clutch shafts, bushings, forks and resurfaced flywheels all work together related to your clutch brake adjustment. There is by the book and how do you make this work. Replace everything as new and buy the book normally works.
When you have a 2505 Terragator that Elwood can not not in gear, four trucks are lined up with more on the way and the starter is screwing up 60 miles from town you learn to get creative.
While I prefer the two piece aluminum one with screws some of the other two piece brakes are thinner. Get one of those and grind all the friction material off one side. Back the clutch brake gap off to about 3/4 inch and install this brake behind the other one. Fiber side to the transmission. You are looking for about one inch free play and 3/8's gap at the brake. Have to work it out case by case.
Teach Elwood that the clutch pedal is only to be fully depressed with the vehicle stopped in order to engage a gear. When it is fully engaged with the vehicle moving in gear that little disc is trying to stop the whole machine.
It only takes Elwood Jr moving it one time to knock the brake out.
I try to adjust clutch brake action a little on the slack side because of that.
Good luck wit your tractor. -
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