Clutch nightmare

Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by Midwest Trucker, Oct 9, 2021.

  1. D.Tibbitt

    D.Tibbitt Road Train Member

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    Man i come visit this thread everyday hoping that you got the problem fixed only to be back at the shop once again... I have to say I admire your patience and perseverence thru all of this. I wouldve clocked somebody over the head by now or burneed the truck to the ground on accident.
     
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  3. Accidental Trucker

    Accidental Trucker Road Train Member

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    Man, I had to pour myself a snort after reading today’s saga.

    Someone once told me that some people are only alive because it’s illegal to kill them. I’m thinking that just could be true for trucks as well......
     
  4. Arch Stanton

    Arch Stanton Light Load Member

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    This is a great idea if the regulator does not fix it
     
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  5. scoobertdoo

    scoobertdoo Road Train Member

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    I'm not reading 13 pages....

    Air in the hydraulic line? Water? Change the fluids, replace master and slave cylinder. Rear main seal leaking onto clutch?
     
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  6. SteveScott

    SteveScott Road Train Member

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    Wow, I don't look at this thread for a few days and I miss everything. Marc, you've had a freekin nightmare with this one. It reminds me why I prefer older technology to things today. Anybody who grew up in the 60's or before remembers when things were built to last, not break down after a couple years so you are forced to replace them with something new. My parents gave my son a 97 Mercedes E320 for free and he drove it for a few years. It was a great car and had almost 300,000 miles on it. Then things started going wrong. Electronic components all over the car began to fail. The engine ran great, but anything made of plastic or electronic just started failing one right after another. I've come to the conclusion that anything on a vehicle that's plastic or electronic will fail after 20-25 years no matter what. Constant temperature fluctuations destroy electronic circuit boards, and heat gradually destroys plastic until it gets brittle and breaks. This is why you can find a 1920's Ford in a barn or garage that hasn't been started in 50+ years, put in some fresh gasoline and it will start. When I was 30 I bought a 1961 Willys Overland that hadn't been started in 20 years. Blew out the cobwebs, new battery and fresh fuel and it fired right up.
     
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  7. pushbroom

    pushbroom Road Train Member

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    Had a 567 with the same air over hydraulic setup slip the clutch. Took a while to find it but had contamination in the master/slave and it would intermittently stick juuust enough to cause the clutch to slip. New master and slave fixed it. Also have had drivers pour atf in the reservoir causing the slave to hang up.
    I was even under the truck watching the clutch fork as we had it slipping in the shop. Doesn't have to move the release bearing hardly anything to make it slip.
     
  8. scoobertdoo

    scoobertdoo Road Train Member

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    Yeah, that's nice... Did your 1960's truck have 500hp and 1800 torque? No. The more you wind up a clock the shorter the life. I had a dodge 2500 5.9 turned up to 600hp. Lasted 140,000 miles and blew. I had a newer Dodge 6.7 turned down from the factory to 325hp, lasted beyond 600,000 miles when the truck was wrecked.

    Same goes with modern semi trucks. My 13 liter makes 4xxhp. A 13 liter in the 60's had what, 200hp, max? They also cleaned up the tailpipes a bit, though they went too far in 2006 to get them a fraction cleaner
     
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  9. Cat sdp

    Cat sdp . .

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    Is it fixed…?
     
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  10. Midwest Trucker

    Midwest Trucker Road Train Member

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    They changed the regulator and drive it last night. All was fine. Today they drove it for 3 or 4 hours and the pressures held correctly and no slippage.

    I can’t get to it until tomorrow but hopefully it’s fixed. I’m not holding my breath though.
     
  11. Oscar the KW

    Oscar the KW Going Tarpless

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    Turn that 5.9 down to 325 and it would last just as long or longer.
     
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