Thanks, everyone. I've read all your posts, and appreciate the help.
Tranny is on the ground next to the truck.
Tomorrow I'll pull the clutch and flywheel, and get the flywheel to the outfit that can turn it. Then I've got a lot of gunk to clean up. Tranny was leaking out the bellhousing so bad, I won't be able to see if the rear main seal is leaking until I get the flywheel off. I figured it's leaking out the input shaft, but there's so much filth in there, I can't even really tell. Either way, it'll get a new input shaft, bearing, and gasket between case and bellhousing. All the stuff in the kit, except I don't think I'll be taking the shift tower off, unless there's a good reason to?
What shifter bushings are you talking about? The two plastic ones that go around the bolt that holds the shifter on?
Clutch R&R questions
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by God prefers Diesels, Dec 3, 2020.
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Definitely strap the transmission to the jack. They've been known to jump off.
A U-joint tool could come in handy if you've got full round yokes.
Caps and plugs for the external cooler lines (if equipped).
I've always stacked the clutch on the input shaft. I think its easier but that's just me. Regardless, ALWAYS verify the discs and intermediate plate are in the correct order and direction, have seen them stacked wrong in the box. Its rare but can happen. Make sure the release fork is properly engaged before you bolt it all up. May be worth checking the cross shafts/bushings and fork for wear since its apart. Definitely resurface the flywheel and install a new pilot bearing.
When you pull the shift tower, I like to remove the springs from the top cover so they don't get lost. I also cover the opening. Usually I just tie the shifter to the steering wheel and leave it hanging.650cat425, Dino soar, Rideandrepair and 5 others Thank this. -
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I can't ever recall seeing a shifter that could be unbolted from the tower. That's a new one on me. Definitely better since it limits dirt from getting inside. For the 5 minutes it takes I'd change the gasket since you have a new one already.
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The thru bolt. From nub to lever.650cat425, Rideandrepair, spsauerland and 3 others Thank this. -
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I am another vote for one piece clutch brake too, all I use. Seen too many 2 piece laying in inspection cover. Install kit will not come with release cross shafts, probably need them too. ISX rear seal (front too) is a wear ring style seal. No way to correctly install without proper tool. Seems like most ISX's I do need rear structure sealed and housing is usually fretted. It never ends...
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I've decided to go with the one piece brake now, lol.
What tool do you need to install the rear seal?
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Jiminey Christmas!! Did they put the decimal in the wrong spot?
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