Clutch R&R questions

326 is cheeep
I bet the OEM Cummins seal installer is 1000$

You should see the amount we spend on specialty tools. Bought a cam bearing removal tool for 12g.

 

I paid $400 for a sled gauge. And all that is is a precision machined block of steel about 1"×1"×5" that holds a dial indicator lol.

Boy am I glad the shop supplies the specialty stuff lol.

 

That sounds like a good plan if they have the tools and will do the job.
If it was mine, seal is not leaking and truck has not been leaking oil at rear I would not touch the seal. On the other hand did you pay attention to spsauerlands post about rear structures. That is the housing that bolts on the back of the block. It also has the rear engine mounts on it so the engine has to be supported for R&R. That is a much more difficult job. I would tend to do both or none after the others posts.

 

Hey @God prefers Diesels just curious, how long have been without work? I'm assuming this is your work truck?

 

Get some 6 inch bolts same size as clutch bolts. Cut heads off and cut a slot in them. Screw in flywheel at 11, 1 o'clock or close. Use them to help install clutch. Then install few other bolts, remove the with a flat blade screw driver.

Id give you a pic, but I have left the shop for the day.

 

A new ISX rear seal comes with a plastic ring/installer. The wear sleeve is integral with the seal Its easy to install I use a block of wood and a hammer to put it in most of the way and a steel plate with 2 holes drilled in it and 2 bolts to pull it in the last bit. Make sure if you change it the new one is in straight.
ISX rear seals don't give a lot of trouble leakage wise, I would go either way as far as replacing it.
To get the old seal out drill 4 holes 90 degrees apart and use big sheet metal screws with a heel bar to pull it. The wear sleeve will be a bit of a struggle to get out I use a small heel bar under the flange of the sleeve but its a bit of a struggle to get it off. I keep a short length of light chain in my tool box for torquing the flywheel. One end bolts to a clutch bolt hole in the flywheel the other end bolts to the flywheel housing bolt hole that the bell housing bolts to.

If you need to roll the engine over manually you can remove the oil filler tube on the front cover and
unscrew the plastic part it threads into. There is a 1 1/4" hex on the end of the shaft for barring the engine over. It take a lot of effort and sometimes there is not enough clearance to swing a long ratchet.
You can also take the small plastic speed sensor plug out at the bottom of the flywheel housing
and use a large screw driver to pry at the ring gear teeth. Its a slow process with 113 teeth to turn it
any amount

The 2 piece clutch brakes are all prone to failure. Most of the time you can fish them out of the flywheel housing. I once had to replace a flywheel housing on an N14 because the clutch brake got jammed between the clutch and the housing and broke the motor mount completely off on the left side.

I have put clutches in both stacking them on the input shaft and bolting them to the flywheel. I prefer to bolt them to the flywheel. Use new grade eight bolts! The bolts that hold the clutch to the flywheel are small and have a lot of responsibility. Torque them properly and I like to use Loctite. When I was younger I used to lift the clutch into place with the pilot shaft in it and slide the pilot shaft into the pilot bearing and put the bolts in.
They must make clutches heavier now because at 60 I just can't lift them in anymore. I disassemble the clutch and hang the discs and intermediate plate from the pilot bearing and then slide the pressure plate
into place and bolt it to the flywheel. Be careful it doesn't fall. Its a pretty tight spot to have a helper to lift
it in. There is a ridge around the face of the flywheel that centers the clutch assembly. Make sure when
the clutch is installed its not sitting on the ridge or you will have a vibration.

VERY IMPORTANT! If you disassemble the new clutch to install it make sure the friction discs go in
correctly! One should be marked flywheel side that faces the flywheel and one should be marked
pressure plate which faces the pressure plate. Also mark the steel intermediate plate so it goes in the
same way it came out. The pressure plate and intermediate plate are balanced as an assembly.

Once the clutch is installed remove the small wood shims from between the release bearing and the pressure plate BEFORE removing the pilot shaft. Then gently tap the end of the pilot shaft upwards
and sideways with a small hammer. You should be able to slide the pilot shaft in and out by hand.
Put a small dab of grease on the end of the pilot shaft that goes into the pilot bearing, slide the pilot
shaft in and pull it out the grease should be pushed back by the pilot bearing. If so you are ready to
install the transmission.

It sure helps to have a second person to help.

I like to put the gear shift in the highest gear when I install a transmission. The engine in the truck is
installed at a slight angle. You want the transmission at the same angle when you install it. You will have to raise the jack a little bit as the input shaft slides into the clutch because of the angle.

Once the transmission is under the truck pull the input shaft into the clutch and the from the back
put your boot into the output yoke and push the transmission into place. By putting the transmission
in gear you can rotate the input shaft by turning the yoke with your boot while pushing on it.
Once the input shaft starts in the splines you will need to slightly go up on the jack as it goes in.
MAKE SURE the throw-out fork rolls over the release bearing as it goes in or it can hit the pressure
plate and stop the shaft going in. There are holes in the pressure plate the fingers on the fork
can go through as well. Don't let that happen or you will have to pull the transmission back to get
the fork out.
As the shaft slides into the clutch measure the space between the flywheel housing and the
bell-housing, I use a short steel rule. Looking up from the floor it can look like its lined up perfectly but
it can be quite deceiving. More time lining things up means less of a fight to get the transmission in.
The last 3/4" is when the input shaft has to slide into the pilot bearing and can be a bit difficult.
DO NOT try to pull it in the last bit with bolts! Doing so can damage the pilot bearing and cause it to fail.

If you put the clutch release lever on the end of the cross shaft you can usually pull the transmission
in the last bit by hand with the lever.

Just a few tips from someone who replaced a lot of transmissions and clutches over the last 40 years.