Clutch R&R questions

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by God prefers Diesels, Dec 3, 2020.

  1. pushbroom

    pushbroom Road Train Member

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    Crank seal install and flywheel torque. Not saying you did anything wrong, just sharing the manual.
    chrome_MJjZAN3cy6.jpg chrome_PpFvDkuQjW.jpg chrome_quk6vaxgSu.jpg
     
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  3. God prefers Diesels

    God prefers Diesels Road Train Member

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    Oh crap, I didn't use the flat part against the seal, I used the lip part. I figured it was designed like that so it wouldn't touch the rubber. Is that a problem?
     
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  4. pushbroom

    pushbroom Road Train Member

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    The plastic spacer is designed so it fits into the OEM seal driver tool. As long as the seal is flat across the front and not separated it should be ok. You can run it like @BoxCarKidd said to verify its ok before putting in the trans. Post up a pic of the seal and seal to crank.

    I should have posted the pics up earlier.

    You can go onto quickserve.cummins.com and make your free account with access to 5? engine serial numbers for parts and service manuals.
     
  5. God prefers Diesels

    God prefers Diesels Road Train Member

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    I'll post a clear pic tomorrow. Right now, the steel part of the seal is inset maybe 1/16th inch deeper than the rubber, maybe a little less. But they aren't flush with each other.

    No, it's not your job to keep me from messing up. I'm darn happy about all the guidance you guys have already given me, and I haven't had to pay a dime for it. No complaints here.

    I already have an account with my serial number in there, and I've even browsed the service manuals in the past, and I didn't even think of that!!
     
  6. BoxCarKidd

    BoxCarKidd Road Train Member

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    Different color engines. You are both OK.
     
  7. God prefers Diesels

    God prefers Diesels Road Train Member

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    I'm not taking pics. I looked at the old rubber, and it's thick and strong. No way I damaged it installing it the way I did.

    However, the manual explicitly says in bold lettering, do Not use lubricants during installation. And That the soap and water helps the seal bond to the case. I'm afraid the only "bonding" gonna be going on under my truck is a puddle of oil bonding to the ground after it leaks out of my bellhousing. So I went to town and bought a new seal. Lessons learned...
     
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  8. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    I think my Detroit installed dry, but with oil on crank side. I made the mistake of cleaning it with acetone. Wiped some of the plastic/ Teflon green stuff off. It still doesn’t leak. Almost bought another one. I did run it though, for a while, about 20 minutes before putting the trans in, with the blowby tube blocked for a couple/ few maybe 5 minutes at a time. Per Boxcarrkids recommendation. Nice and dry.
     
  9. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    I really don’t know, but I think they leak around the crank, not the outer sleeve side. May not be a big deal. I understand it’s a big labor job, if it does though. My Detroit required a special installer with spacers, different sizes for front and rear seals. Luckily I borrowed one from a local shop. After a few told me it will leak otherwise.Detroits new style green seal/ sleeve rides on center of sleeve, sleeve sticks out, instead of being flush, like the old style orange ones.
     
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  10. black_dog106

    black_dog106 Road Train Member

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    If it was easy everyone would be doing it and repair shops would be looking for work.
    As said before, think your doing a helluva job, going the extra effort to make sure its right.
    And thanks to the guys that know and are helping!!! :occasion5:
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2020
  11. SmokinCAT

    SmokinCAT Road Train Member

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    This seal was pushed out and damaged from to much crankcase pressure.

    They are not as robust as you think.
     

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