Cobra 29 lx max problem

#### straight. They all went back to riding a forklift after those fines. And everyone wonders about the reasons for, “the driver shortage”.

 

You don't want a cobra lx. It forgets all of your settings every time you unplug the power.

 

Were you born in a cave??
When was the last time you saw anything much more than a cobra at 4 watts being sold...
10/11 m radios and amps being sold like crazy...Unless your an ### above an ### and dumb as duck no one gets fined,harrassed from any form of fcc...Heck i could go get a 500/700/1000 watt amp or more and not even get a 2nd look....
So get with the times,legal or not its common place today so get off your pedastal of your 4 watt leagal mumbo jumbo..

Speed limits are set to but how often are they broken??

 

You know plenty enough. Just get sufficient ground and big enough wire to supply it. A bird meter to check reflect, and as long as your amp has a good clean output tune, you will be fine. People knock class c amps all the time, but you can run a class C amp in a Cascadia or other plastic truck and not have any interference with a radio that has the limiter cut and is supposed to be a splatter box and not mess with any electronics. Even without tons of bonding, almost none. I guarantee that.

I never put my antennas on an analyzer, just a cheap radio shack meter. Then a bird for reflect and verify less than 3% reflected power which is what amp builders recommend. In 20+ years I have never burnt a pill up from high swr. Kept my deadkey low and made sure it had sufficient cooling, always worked fine.

 

Lol how many run around with a bird meter...Never had one,had a few different swr meters but how do you know your well grounded..Without a ohm meter you dont know..Tuneing your ant via an swr meter inly shows swr,what about the rest you need to adjust for...
I test my coax,my antenna mount ground and use my ohm meter for that..Impedences,resonance,resistances with analyzer....Needs a lil more tweeking but still my swr is 1:12 to 1:3 and its showing some capacidence but still in 22db to 25 (which is really good)db return loss..Dont know YET how to calculate reflect buts all the info i need is there..

 

Im almost there,just resonance is a bit high..

 

I can legally transmit at 1,500 watts. However, I have no need for anything more than 100, and most of the time I use less. Good radio practice is to use only as much power as is needed for the communication. To get an amateur radio license is easy. Go get a book, study the question pool, and find a site to take the test. Technician class license holders have access not only to VHF and above, but also ten meters.
Most 2meter mobiles run at least 50watts, and have a huge advantage over CB's for local communication.
But why stop there. General class gets you on HF beyond 10m.
If you like talk DX, it makes little since to limit yourself to that little slither of bandwidth on 11meters.
Go for it, you won't regret it.

 

Im good for now with what my set up does for me....
Now later down the road i may up my game some..I like barefoot vs iseing power to overcome set up issues..Im always less than 100 watts..My radio peps about 80+ but 90% of the time in set about 25% power..

 

Yes and no. I recently picked up a new 29 LX (non-MAX) and out of the box, the receive was absolutely horrid.

I never got that, either. The FCC doesn't say much about receive. I get setting the transmit a little low from the factory to avoid being over on a random spot check, but there is absolutely no reason to have them coming out of the factory with the receive set so low. That is the biggest limiting factor on "out of the box" radios. Power has to be quadrupled for a one S-unit increase, so a reasonable transmitter tune up (non-hackjob) is barely going to make a difference if your antenna system is set up properly.

Of course, the hack shops generally don't even touch the receive. They're all about them thar' WHATTS.

 

I have two bird meters, the last one cost $150 and is quite small. If you are willing to spend $400 on an analyzer, then a bird meter shouldn’t be out of budget. The batteries you connect your amp to are grounded, you can run spare frame grounds if you feel it’s necessary. (Bare metal frame ensures you’re grounded, don’t need my multimeter for that, although I have several). A bird shows you exact reflected watts by simply reversing the element as you deadkey or modulate. Im in a 2017 Cascadia, running a lot more power than your Striker, with a supposed splatter box radio and a dirty class c and getting less than 1% reflect. No analyzer, no worrying about capacitance, no measuring impedance, no extra grounding and zero issues with electronic interference.