Here is my 1990 IHC 9700 High Rise about a year after I bought it. Used this photo for a Christmas Card![]()
COE plan/questions/advice
Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by jacko117, Apr 3, 2022.
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D.Tibbitt, Gearjammin' Penguin and Long FLD Thank this.
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Last edited: May 24, 2023
Studebaker Hawk and Gearjammin' Penguin Thank this. -
Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeelllllllllllllllllll,,,,,yes it can be done, stretching frames is incredibly costly, and new longer frame rails, requiring complete dismantling of the truck, is a PITA. Like when I bought my Harley and tried to make it something it wasn't. It would certainly be the only one I heard of, and probably best to just run it as is. Stretched out trucks look cool, ride nice, but detracts from what your truck was originally designed for. I think you are asking too much from the old gal,,
Studebaker Hawk Thanks this. -
A guy I hauled cattle with went from 255” to 280” on a 379 he had. At the time it was $5400 out the door at Maupin in Dodge City. If you have the time and resources and a flat slab of concrete it’s really not that difficult to stretch a truck.
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Buy a conventional with set back axle, 110 to 120 sleeper, Everything finished and road ready, get your money back if you need too.
Cabovers are a sexy as some think. I’ve drove them over 1 million miles.
A quick stop to check a leak or motor noise turns into 15 minutes as you move all your stuff so yo can jack up the cab without putting something thru the windshield.
Cab jacks don’t always work the if your notparked level the cab can be hard to get locked down. -
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I used to could do a cut off in 2 days out the door including building the driveshaft if you went longer. The weld was always in center of crossmember single pass of low hydrogen uphill inside and out then ground smooth. A sleeve on each side up to the next cross member in front and behind.
Now I’m not debating that a z cut or a 45 isn’t stronger certainly is. Just not needed. Also if it’s not exact fitted and tacked 100 percent properly it’s gonna pull that rail guaranteed. You’re also still gonna want to sleeve it afterwards with those for safety. Idk how many trucks I know of are stretched like I do em but to my knowledge not 1 has had issues with cracks, alignment, or sag before or after being totaled. A frame rail is meant to give and give a lot. Gorilla welds and z cuts take from that. Again ya the 45 and z are stronger just not needed but if that’s what you want it’s your deal. But take a sack lunch and be prepared to cut it back off or junk it if the alignment shop can’t keep tires on it or get it to sit level -
Studebaker Hawk Thanks this.
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First there is no length law on a tractor, and you can’t make any money lounging around in a big house. Make sure you get a big front axle, your going to always be heavy unless you can slide 5th a foot or more behind center.
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that is how we knew which end to hook up to
I remember when i started in 1976 we were the Swift drivers of our time....Oxbow and kemosabi49 Thank this.
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