I need a single axle automatic tractor to convert to a dump. Problem is that I'm having a hell of a time finding a single axles while the tandems are easier to find and about the same cost. Many years ago, I had a truck stretched which wasn't too bad but that was before all the electronic stuff like abs. Can this be done on a tandem reasonably not loosing the abs since it's set up for another axle? The trucks I'm looking at are air ride so the axles are pretty much independent of each other. Obviously the drive shaft will have to be reworked.
Converting tandem axle tractor to single axle?
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by giannid, Jan 25, 2016.
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move your back axle forward and cut the rest off the back or get a rear from a single axle truck should be pretty easy
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OMG are you for real little cat? The input shaft on the rear tandem is not in the same alignment.
Please google a "commercial frame shop" near you. They do this all the time. Dont listen to people on the net for such a costly investment. -
Did you trycommercial truck trader? I see plenty of them on there
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I'm looking for a single axle/automatic tractor with decent power? Also has to be able to take a PTO. Been looking for a month and there's not much out there and yes I check all the truck sites. Tandems are easier to find. Want to stay around 20K
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You could simply unbolt both drives and suspension and bolt the rear drive and suspension into the front position. Little to no drilling required. Driveshaft length will need to be altered and driveline angles will need to be adjusted to eliminate vibrations. If you get a truck that has a single modulator and single speed sensor for left and right drives it should be easy enough to adapt that to a single drive axle. A truck with a modulator and speed sensor at each wheel will probably be a bit more difficult.
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So is this doable or way too expensive? Haven't had any luck finding someone that will take the job on or give me a price. Sounds like you may need to purchase a new rear end.
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Labor is the most expensive part . Should only have to buy a longer drive shaft.
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I think the alignment is different on the rear axle of the tandem is different than an axle on a single axle. On a tandem I have to axle input comes straight in from the forward axle. On the single axle it almost comes in offset. Seems like a pain in the ### project and I'm not sure anyone is going to give me a straight answer locally.
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Dump trucks often run maximum weights and single axle units are often spec'ed with 20,000+ axles. Dual axle units are often rated around 17K per axle. Will that work for you?
The last one I did charged 20 hours for a married to customer. It was already a single axle but drilled all the holes to meet fertilizer spreader box wheel base specs. Required moving at least one crossmember and boxing in the rear of the frame. I did the drive shaft myself.
Axle seat angles and hanger bearing heights are different to maintain proper drive line angles. Steer axle caster wedges can be used between the axle and seats to correct drive line angle. The factory used different axle seats but it is almost impossible to find anyone that can tell you what is needed. "Year make & model? 2wd or 4wd? ,manual or automatic? No we can not supply that it's not in the computer, call the dealer. Are you sure? I just need the receptical the cigarette lighter plugs into.
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