Fridge NOT even worth looking at. (Unless you don't care about keeping food and drinks cold)
Had them both...I even have a YETI cooler (my wife is wonderful) but an Igloo cooler is great. Used same 1 for over 5 yrs.
Keep mind in the floor (easy access) just just used to stepping over it. Not a problem.
Good luck
Cooler or Refrigerator? Want to eat healthy on the road.
Discussion in 'Questions From New Drivers' started by SlaminSam, Jul 18, 2017.
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The only down side of plentium is that it is dependant on outside temperature. I think they can only go about 35 degrees below ambient temperature. This is why Marmonman has done as he has described in his earlier post.
Plentium is a semiconductor that has the unusual ability of absorbing heat. If it is mounted on a heat sink and then a fan blown over it heat is extracted from a confined space ------- to a point.
It is all about the external ambient temperature. SO if the unit is placed somewhere by the AC and the outside temperature is low the plentium unit will follow suit.
Your unit has been combined with the much better insulation of a regular fridge unit. I don't see a down side. Koolatron or Igloo are massively better than Coleman so I think you have made a very good choice.tscottme Thanks this. -
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A fridge IS worth looking at (if you care about keeping food and drinks cold - or even frozen).
Merriam Webster:-
Definition of dogmatic
- 1: characterized by or given to the expression of opinions very strongly or positively as if they were facts a dogmatic critic
Last edited: Jul 19, 2017
tscottme Thanks this. -
When I was a company driver I still had a fridge and a cooler. If I knew I was going to change trucks - and I almost always did - I would temporarily use a cooler. I would then get routed by the yard soon as I could and in would go the fridge and larger inverter.
My problem was their stupid attitude to inverters. I got caught once so I always made sure I installed it all away from any non regular mechanics.
As for cables melting again you are 100% right.
I have hard wired in my 12v stove. Same problem. I like your solution.Last edited: Jul 19, 2017
25(2)+2 Thanks this. -
Regarding the hotplate I would stay away from an electric hotplate. I tried and failed. I use a flat butane variety. They sell them in TA / Petro and are extortionately priced. I bought mine for $20 in Walmart. The butane is not sold off the shelf anywhere except in TA/Petro again for an arm or a leg. The only state I know of that sells it in WM is Texas. I buy mine in 24 cannister boxes from eBay. I just keep an extra one on the truck.
Your comments about being a lot of work etc are right.
If somebody is a 5 minute trucker, just testing the water, then no, my solutions are not for you.
I live in my truck except for a couple of months a year when I take off. It isn't just my business but my home. I want my home comfortable. I also want to save money.
So some money and effort invested up front makes life a lot more convenient, comfortable and economical. -
I have been running a Coleman cooler for 3 years now. It melted a few plugs so I did this to it.
Coleman cooler plug melting
Been almost 2 years now and its stopped once. Had to replace an inline fuse I added in front of the toggle on/off switch I added to the power cord. I would prefer a real fridge but this thing works well enough. I run out and back and am home every few days. I carry precooked meals and eat almost exclusively out of the cooler. They go straight from my fridge at home into a softside cooler with a couple of those frozen coleman blue ice packs then into the coleman. The blue ice packs are often still partially frozen when I get home after a 3-4 day run.
I don't think I would try to carry raw food for cooking in the truck in one of these coolers. Precooked is safer and sometimes frozen when I put them in the cooler. I heat them up either in a truck stop microwave or a lunch box oven in the truck. -
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The compact Koolatron has a different plug that stays in better, the big Koolatron had the same trouble as the Coleman. A different plug in probably would solve it.
The reason, wattage is determined by volts x amps, and effective voltage is reduced by a poor connection, so the amps increase until the fuse blows or the plug melts, usually, in my experience, at about the same time.SlaminSam Thanks this. -
Hey 25. And that makes perfect sense. so thanks for that explanation. If I end up with a similar issue I'll go with direct wiring. Thanks a bunch
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