Core value on brake chambers

Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by gekko1323, Jan 11, 2023.

  1. gekko1323

    gekko1323 Road Train Member

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    Strokes were different. Luckily DOT hasn't given me an inspection yet. My bad though. I should have been more diligent.
     
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  3. m16ty

    m16ty Road Train Member

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    Years ago there was a core charge for not returning you old ones. This was back when you could still service the spring side. Perfectly safe to service the spring side with the chamber caged, but I guess too many people were taking apart the clamp on the spring side without caging (very bad) so now they crimp them.
     
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  4. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    They also have a special cage/steel box contraption used for safely disarming the spring brake for safe disposal. Or you can do like the YouTube Guy, using a torch cut a window, then cut the spring in 2 places. Old rusty cans are dangerous. Changed all 4 on my trailer last summer. Took longer than I’d expected. Started from scratch measuring, following the instructions that came with each one. Got them all nice and even. When applied, the rods just a bit under a 90 degree angle with the slacks. Nothing wrong with changing the piggyback, leaving the spring. As long as the springs good. I used to carry a spare. Decided it’s not a very safe thing to have under my bunk. Always have carried a pancake, on the advice of an old friend. I actually did change one once, with his help over the telephone. It was a pita. But got me fixed up, since parts weren’t available at the time. The problems always the same. Rusty frozen bolts and pins. Turns a simple so called “15 minute” job into a 2-3 hour pita. I’d rather pay the $80-$150 labor, and watch someone else armed with proper tools wrestle with it. They’re never easy to change, always a problem.
     
  5. SL3406

    SL3406 Medium Load Member

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    I'm curious what you're expecting to learn from the old chambers? A better learning experience would have been to replace the leaking chamber at the TA, and waiting until you got home to replace the other 3 yourself. You would have a extra $1000 in your bank account right now if you had.
     
  6. gekko1323

    gekko1323 Road Train Member

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    Just taking them apart and put them back together, like when I was a kid, will help immensely. YES, I know I have to cage the spring side, or at least mitigate the danger. And just watching vids about brake chambers while I follow along with the old ones will give me a better grasp. Next time, I'll do them all myself. It might even help me with changing the slack adjusters myself. I'll be doing that soon. The guy at the TA said that I wasn't allowed to watch him work. So replacing them myself at home would probably not have ended well.
     
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  7. gekko1323

    gekko1323 Road Train Member

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    Yeah, the guy at the TA said that he could have piggy-backed the bad one. But you know, I bought the truck back in April and I have already made my purchase money back. And I kind of been half-assing it because I've only logged about 30,000 miles AT MOST. Now you know as well as I do that whenever you buy a used truck, you are at the mercy of what the previous owners did or neglected to do to the truck. So I would rather just get things done completely the first time to not have to revisit the same issue down the road (pun intended, as always!). This way, I KNOW what has been done and I can concentrate on something else. So I don't mind re-investing money back into the truck.

    So far, besides the brake chambers, I have only had to replace the carrier bearing because my driveline was loose, and I bought 8 new drive tires. I get my PM done every 12,000 miles and always get oil samples. My next task is to get the overhead done because the inframe already has close to 100k miles on it. All the while I am putting about $1 a mile towards a savings/maintenance account.
     
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  8. m16ty

    m16ty Road Train Member

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    The actual changing the brake chambers is pretty straight forward, the a actual practice can be a real chore. The issue is everything is usually rusted up. I've had to torch the nuts holding the chamber to the axle before because they weren't coming loose otherwise.
     
  9. Dino soar

    Dino soar Road Train Member

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    Whatever you do, please don't do this. Take the piggyback side off but don't mess with that spring, if that was your intention.

    There's no need to be that curious. You can go online to see a diagram or photos of everything that's inside of there.

    I would suggest when you get home to get a square and go under your truck and see if you actually have 90° at each slack adjuster.

    You never know with those guys. I can only tell you what was originally on my truck before I worked on it, every one of them was different, and every one of them was wrong.
     
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