Correct way to install input shaft bearing

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by Dino soar, Sep 1, 2018.

  1. Dino soar

    Dino soar Road Train Member

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    I made a driver out of some tubular Steel and the old bearing cover. I left the outer snap ring on and I drove the bearing up to the snap ring. I pulled it out and drove it in a few times but it didn't seem to make any difference as far as how far the bearing was driven onto the shaft. The bearing was very tight on the shaft and was nowhere near where the front snap ring snaps in.

    So I took the outer snap ring off and I drove the bearing in until I could see where the front snap ring had room. At that point I can move the bearing in and out but it would not move out far enough to put the outer snap ring on to it. I don't really understand that- if the bearing is far enough forward on the shaft that the snap ring will fit why won't it move back far enough to put the outer snap ring on.? As far as I can see I did not destroy the bearing.

    I have a puller that I can get the bearing out. I don't care if I destroy the bearing, but I do need to know the right way to do this. So:

    1) the driver that I made only drives it by the outer race. Is that okay or do I need the actual driver that probably drives inner and outer race together?

    2) if you leave the outer snap ring on, how do you drive that bearing far enough on to the shaft so that you can put the front snap ring on?

    3) the bearing was very tight going onto the shaft. I did not use any lubricant, but is it supposed to be that tight?
     
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  3. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    I’ve never done one but am researching now. Youtube has a few good videos search “fuller road ranger input shaft replacement” Don smith channel . I’ve seen a couple others on there too.
     
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  4. AModelCat

    AModelCat Road Train Member

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    Are you trying to install it over the input shaft and into the housing at the same time?
     
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  5. Dino soar

    Dino soar Road Train Member

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    I think that would be the correct way to say it.

    The shaft itself is locked in with the snap ring and then the spacer goes behind it so the shaft is already in the housing. So you have to put your bearing over the shaft and drive it in.
     
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  6. Goodysnap

    Goodysnap Road Train Member

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    You have to lube inside and outside of the bearing with 50 wt but especially the inside. Dry will fight you the whole way.The driver works OK but it always seems like that last little bit is tough to get. Sometimes I just use a long race punch on the inner race and have a companion hold the input shaft. Keep tappin her at 180's while rotating in till just past the snap ring groove. Sometimes is even faster than getting the driver. Pull out on the shaft while tapping in the bearing.

    The inner race is supposed to be tight fit so it doesnt spin on the shaft.
     
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2018
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  7. AModelCat

    AModelCat Road Train Member

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    I've only ever done 1 input shaft and the bearing fit tight on the shaft but looser in the bore so I drove it in on the inner race. My transmission is kind of an oddball model though.
     
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  8. Dino soar

    Dino soar Road Train Member

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    Do you leave the outer snap ring on when you drive the bearing in?
     
  9. Goodysnap

    Goodysnap Road Train Member

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    Yes, no need to take it off.
     
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  10. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    Now I’m lost seems you need to drive bearing in past groove Basically all the way to spacer then install snap ring . Why drive in with snap ring in the way ?
     
  11. Dino soar

    Dino soar Road Train Member

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    I can't tell you why you do it that way, but if Goodysnap says to do it, believe him.

    And believe me also because I drove mine in without the snap ring on and now I have to destroy the bearing to get it out.

    It doesn't make sense to me either but I did notice the guys on YouTube they do look like they have the snap ring on there when they drive it in.
     
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