Ok working on the 2015 389 Pete. On the bottom of the valve pictured is a dump valve. It's leaking air. I can't build secondary air pressure. Normally, I would say a stuck valve BUT I have a lot of problems with the ignition cylinder. I turn the key, lights come on, goes through it's cycle when the wait light goes off , I turn the key and nothing. Might have to do this several times before truck starts.
I've been told at the dealership and I've read that bad contacts can cause that plus a whole host of other electrical problems. I've had several strange electrical problems that go away if I restart the truck.
I've heard that the dump valve is air and electrical in the 2015's. This problem with the air leaking and secondary not building air is intermittent.
Before I replace this valve ( I've been told I have to buy all 3 not just the center one) I'm wondering if replacing the ignition cylinder would actually solve the problem. It has to be replaced anyway but I'm just curious on others opinions.
Could this be an electrical problem?
Discussion in 'Peterbilt Forum' started by Jennyspete, Nov 3, 2024.
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Doubt its the ignition.
One thing with air systems is never assume the leaking valve is the problem. A lot of air valves have their exhaust ports open in their neutral position. It could just as easily be another component leaking or backfeeding into that circuit and the leaking valve was just the easiest place for the air to escape.Jennyspete Thanks this. -
I have bought that valve separate from the other two.
From my parts house. If I remember right they called it a triple valve.
Right under the fifth wheel where all the grease falls. -
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Suspension dump valves are connected to the leveling valve for the air springs. That valve is the brake actuating valve. The two connected to it are for abs. That is why it is so expensive. It is probably got dirt build up in the exhaust port in the bottom causing it to stick open. The electric part they told you about is the power in and out of the abs valves to the wheel hubs. Just cleaning all that grime off and spraying some brake cleaner up in the exhaust port might luckily fix it.
Iamoverit Thanks this. -
Its been a few years maybe $400 or less.
Took it off and parts house matched it up.
I know the whole thing was expensive.
Truck salvage ? -
If its your own tractor, take it apart very carefully and clean it, make sure everything is moving freely, reassembly carefully. Nothing to lose
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Delivered to Creech AFB this morning, easy enough, back into a dock stay in the cab as instructed. Could not have been to interesting, no escort.
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Does that top air line go to another valve? There should be a quick release valve somewhere (behind the 5th whieel?) and that is what usually fails and vents through that center valve. At least, it's a common problem on Freightliners, and the first instinct is to buy that triple valve assembly, which doesn't solve the problem. You can test by disconnecting that air line from the center ABS valve to the quick release valve. If it vents through the open line instead of the center valve then the center valve isn't the problem. Quick release valves are a lot cheaper that those triple ABS valve assemblies BTW.
I had the same problem coming through the mountains in Oregon a couple of months ago. I had to cage the brakes and ride with the yellow knob out listening to Beeeeeeeeeeeeeep for the next three hours.
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