cummins big cam 4 cpl:749 beige paint NTC315 hot rodding questions. low flow to high

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by Mountainmover, Mar 1, 2015.

  1. Mountainmover

    Mountainmover Bobtail Member

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    Feb 24, 2015
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    Oh wow. Please tell me about the CAC! Is it like an intercooler that's in front of the radiator?
     
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  3. bubbanbrenda

    bubbanbrenda Road Train Member

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    technically it's "charge air cooler" and yes that is what is out in front of the radiator.
     
  4. Cetane+

    Cetane+ Road Train Member

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    This is from my dark years, when I owned macks, thats what we called the radiator mounted coolers vs the series (engine) mounted coolers. :biggrin_255:
     
  5. OLDSKOOLERnWV

    OLDSKOOLERnWV Captain Redbeard

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    When I drove for Powers Enterprise the Owner (Randy) put me in his Mom's double bunk Cabover Freightliner (400/855) for a week while my regular truck was being worked on. He told me...make sure you watch the temp guage, and the Pyro, this is my Mom's truck and Dad has it cranked up hot!! Took a load of steel to Wolf Bros in Philly, went into Jersey City and reloaded grossing just over 71,000 lbs, truck would pull up out of Cumberland, MD on what we always called 13 mile mtn which is in 3 steps and cross the last pull at 44 mph. Not bad for what it was in those days....1993 if my memory is right. As said earlier PP can most likely help you out, and may be your best choice. Most of the O'l Timers with a "golden screwdriver" are gone.
     
  6. Mountainmover

    Mountainmover Bobtail Member

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    Feb 24, 2015
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    Thanks for the relies so far.
    Is my engine an stp step timing engine or a fixed time? Do I need the mvp system?

    im thinking I'd like to hop my engine up in phases.
    first phase might be the large fuel lines. Does anyone know how that works?

    next phase might be a little fuel button? or do I turn a screw?

    next phase would be changing the low flow system. I need those per numbers and info.

    then maybe dual breather? Not sure how I'd do that on a fiberglass hooded flc120 that has an internal breather......

    then I could phase into the stronger hop ups after I cover the basic foundation?

    what do you guys think?
     
  7. BoxCarKidd

    BoxCarKidd Road Train Member

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    The green is probably just jakes they are green and directly under the valve covers. There were some lime green cummings in the 70's. I thank the engine serial # is on block under head gasket at left rear. Almost all these engines have been changed over to lower press fit liners and they are not all the same. If replaced and the block is OK go back with the same # liner that came out.The change had nothing to do with HP, it resolved the problem of coolant leaking past liner and out head gasket. Part numbers? Buy a CPL book( critical parts list) it lists every part number of every engine grouped by cpl# and the HP is noted. Harmonic balancer? I thank they were recommended replaced at million or so plus rod bolts when out. Pyrometer? They require an operator. You know when your when your standing in, watch it. Ask someone who remembers better than me. After 2 min at 1100 deg. you better let it breath, or somewhere around there. Fuel mileage? Really? Don't understand the push to change over from low flow cooling, I don,t like them either but the expense to retro? There are some oversize cores available. CAC is more effeciant but where will you put it? Mount it flat above the engine with twin electric fans under it and a hole in the hood like a Terragator? All that cooling and CAC stuff is a lot of fab work. You need a lot of time and talent, money, or probably both. N855's were available as 475hp twin turbos, in paralel, saw some in coe shakers and a book. And 550 HP blackmax industrial crate engine (@2450 I believe) single turbo. When we used to do a rebuild and uprate the horsepower we would look through the cpl book. Try to find one that used the same cam and cam key of exceptable hp. . Then build it to that cpl. Sometimes had to change cam key and or camshaft. If you build to a factory spec plus 15% fuel and rpm your pretty sure of having a combination that will work well but it still requires an operator not a steering wheel holder.
     
    OLDSKOOLERnWV Thanks this.
  8. haycarter

    haycarter Road Train Member

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    If the Truck has sentimental value, Just relax & enjoy for what It is..........

    The money You need to spend to "Hotrod" it would be better spent being put towards another Truck.. IMHO..

    Just My 2cents worth.....
     
    ODR Thanks this.
  9. ODR

    ODR Light Load Member

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    I agree with haycarter.
     
  10. SmokinCAT

    SmokinCAT Road Train Member

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    Lots of misinformation, the twin turbo engines were not in parallel, that would mean they ran one off of each three cylinders side by side which is not what they did, they are compounds.

    Black industrial engines are technically N14 mechanicals and mostly for generator drives, and except for a few minor changes in the fuel system and piston they are basically a big cam 3 with STC, the base engine is even listed under the parts breakdown as a BC3.5.

    When the later BC4 was available so was the air to air B model cat, easy to use on of those trucks to source parts for radiator and air to air to fit like factory, not that difficult really.

    I have seen more low flow engines overheat doing minor work, when you limit the flow into the heads that is asking for trouble in the long run, a cool running cummins is a happy one.
     
  11. clausland

    clausland Road Train Member

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    North Woods
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    What is the # on your block, left side, lower rear, 8 digits....I'll look it up for you.........
     
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