Cummins N14 boosting the power/filter vac #'s

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by zx150, Oct 16, 2016.

  1. jamespmack

    jamespmack Road Train Member

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    Check what micron of filter you are using. If its wrong the pump is struggling to pull the fuel threw it.
     
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  3. xsetra

    xsetra Road Train Member

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    Fuel lines I think supply #10 and the return #8
    No clue what part number for cooling plate or check valve.
    You can register your motor with Cummins and then get all the information on the Motor.
     
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  4. zx150

    zx150 Medium Load Member

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    The new lines I had made are larger than the old ones. 1" in diameter with a fabric braid on it.

    10 micron filter. I was told by Davco I need a 7 micron. Have not confirmed it yet with Cummins. The Davco came with a 25 micron filter, will give that a shot and see what happens.
     
  5. jamespmack

    jamespmack Road Train Member

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    Running a 25 micron filter on a n14 is just like running a plugged filter. Between a 10 and 7 you can see power loss on a dyno.
     
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  6. zx150

    zx150 Medium Load Member

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    What is the factory suggested micron rating? I only went this low because the folks at Davco said 7 micron was the OE spec. I'm guessing they are way off.

    Truck definitely ran better today, not a huge difference but noticeable. About 9/10 LBS on the gauge at idle and no more than 15 while coasting or running the jakes. Actually ran the hills OK.

    Had one last line made today, the one from the cooler plate to the filter head, and the #'s at idle are finally in the green! 5LBS idle and no more than 10 while on the jakes. Big difference from 15 at idle and off the gauge while on the jakes.

    Any guesses why the #'s go higher when you're off the throttle?
     
  7. jamespmack

    jamespmack Road Train Member

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    10 micron should be fine on that engine unless you know your not getting good fuel. keep tanks clean, water drained from tanks, run a biocide once a year. I have series 60 and n14. I can tell you on the dyno it 15 to 20 hp difference. Now on the newer engines you would never wanna go that big. The injectors will not live very long. I run alot of bio fuel. A 7 micron or 5 micron I cant physically change the filter fast enough to keep it clean. Alot of people will tell me that 10 isnt fine enough. But these older engines allways ran on 10 micron. And mine does not like the 7 or 5.
     
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  8. zx150

    zx150 Medium Load Member

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    Got my "rebuilt" cooler plate from N14parts.com and my check valve is on the way.

    I'm looking for a fuel system diagram for the N14. I'm having some trouble trying to figure out what is a fuel line and what is an air line(replacing all the fuel lines). It appears the air compressor and fuel pump are the same unit on this truck...Is that right?
     
  9. zx150

    zx150 Medium Load Member

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    Wondering if anybody has advice for unscrewing the cover for the screen on the fuel pump right behind the solenoid? It has a notch for a flat blade screw driver and I just can't remove it.

    With all the fuel lines on the entire truck changed as well as the cooler plate there is no change. Still a dog and still high #'s on the gauge.
     
  10. zx150

    zx150 Medium Load Member

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    Finally got the stupid plug out that the filter screen hides in. The old filter had completely imploded on itself. The plug was stuck in there BAD and had likely not been removed in many years. Not sure why Cummins put a screw driver slot on that thing instead of a bolt head! My mechanic welded a nut to the cap and that did the trick. IMAG3187.jpg

    Installed the new filter and there is no change in performance but now the truck is really acting up.

    The fuel filter vacuum gauge "hunts" at idle now ever so slightly but more or less stays right around where it was before.

    The BIG thing is the truck is having trouble starting, fires right up then stalls out unless you hold the throttle down and help the truck clear its lungs out. Also at 1000-1200 RPM's the truck shudders if you're trying to pull pretty hard, seems to do that intermittently. Last but not least the "Stop Engine" light came on periodically this morning and I'm getting a code 254 which is a problem with the circuit for the shut off solenoid.

    By any chance when my mechanic welded the nut onto the cap for the fuel pump screen could that have fried anything in the ECM? I made sure he disconnected the batteries before welding.
     
  11. ShooterK2

    ShooterK2 Road Train Member

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    Kinda sounds like it's sucking air, since it's hard to start now. Letting fuel drain back to the tanks. I think there's an O-ring on that screen/filter you changed. That would be the first place I'd look.
     
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