Cummins N14+ cam shaft.

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by xsetra, Mar 30, 2021.

  1. BoxCarKidd

    BoxCarKidd Road Train Member

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    A flat tappet cam can spend a bit of time wearing down. With a roller cam the roller starts sliding and the cam is toast real quick.
     
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  3. Jaebo74

    Jaebo74 Medium Load Member

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    I'd bet, especially if the rollers were galled.
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2021
    Reason for edit: Speeling
  4. xsetra

    xsetra Road Train Member

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    The mechanic was changing the oil pan gasket. I am a paranoid 0/0. I had the gasket changed because it was damp about 6 months ago to now always wet. I prefer to change parts at home versus on the road.
    Oil was changed with the gasket. Mechanic didn't take a sample.
    I have a 3000 mile run lined up starting thursday. I'll do that and schedule the overhead at least, maybe replace the camshaft and parts needed, if he has the time.

    It has been about a year since the last time the overhead was done. Motor has around 2 million miles.
    Two inframe overhauls.
     
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  5. tommymonza

    tommymonza Road Train Member

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    Boxcarkidd@

    I debated pulling pulling my cam access covers to inspect my cam and followers but now hesitate because the gasket affects the clearance?

    I am going to pull the oil pan to reseal and attach the oil pickup, so I should be able to view the cam and lifters adequately from below?
     
  6. xsetra

    xsetra Road Train Member

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    I called the mechanic that did my overhaul couple years ago. He said he could pull a push rod while doing the overhead to inspect the camshaft.
    Cummins mechanic said the best way to inspect is by dropping the pan.
     
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  7. BoxCarKidd

    BoxCarKidd Road Train Member

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    You can get a good view from the bottom. Also look for a spun cam bearing while you are at it. Put a finger on the cooler nozzles. If it all looks good be sure your cam follower bolts are tight and rock on.
    The cam follower boxes can be R and R as long as the new gaskets are the same thickness as the old. Normally have to pull starter and acc. drive to do that job. Problem comes in when you start changing cams. Then they need to be jig timed.
     
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  8. Rubber duck kw

    Rubber duck kw Road Train Member

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    Having stuff repaired at home is a lot cheaper than on the road in my experience, particularly if you know a non dealer shop that doesn't think 160 an hour shop rate is normal.
     
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  9. tommymonza

    tommymonza Road Train Member

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    Being a person who has wrenched on all my cars trucks commercial boats hotrod boats for 41 years I'll just say this. .

    If the mechanic is reputable, honest , efficient and fair that rate of $160 is a bargain.
     
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  10. Rubber duck kw

    Rubber duck kw Road Train Member

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    I wrench on a lot of my own junk, from cars to the truck. Been my experience the average shop charging that sort of a rate isn't worth it. They're not lightning McQueen, they don't stock even the basic stuff such as turbo studs/bolts. Local guy I had overhaul mine a couple years ago charged me 50 an hour, think he's up to 60 now trying to keep the guys who can't or won't pay their bill out of there. That guy can fix anything, from a sewing machine to that little hole in the Titanic, OK he may have trouble with that one but you get the point.
    I think 160 an hour is highway robbery, feels like something a little more aggressive when you got to pay the bill.
     
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  11. tommymonza

    tommymonza Road Train Member

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    I've done a few jobs on my own stuff that I would gladly pay that rate if it was done real time and not book time.

    I am currently working on my buddies 42 foot live aboard cruiser with 2 gas 454s in it. They are down underneath the sole of the salon, complete nightmare and one of them has to come out.

    Makes working on a big accessible truck seem like a dream.
     
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