Right, that is the procedure for Big Cam. I understand the valve setting procedure. What I don't know is what exactly to adjust the injectors to. Do I need to just remove all slack from the injector train, or do I need to preload the injector spring with a tiny torque wrench or something.
I know where the crankshaft needs to be, I just don't know how far to turn the adjusting screw.
There isn't really any place to fit a feeler gauge for the injectors, because the pushrods and links that the rocker arms push are both ball and socket joints. Thanks for the help.
Phil
Cummins NHC 250 with dead cylinder...need some experts on the old engines
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by albertaphil, Apr 9, 2010.
Page 4 of 5
-
-
Trucking Jobs in 30 seconds
Every month 400 people find a job with the help of TruckersReport.
-
Just wondering, are u putting in new orings, if you're down to the injector, pull it and put new orings on it. They have to be greased when you put them back in or the oring will roll up.
Why is stuff sent on ships called "cargo" and UPS sends "shipments?" -
I wish I could remember, OH'd a 350 big cam one time years ago.
-
I got rebuilt injectors with new o-rings. I oiled them good with motor oil, which is okay to use according to the book. The liners required vegetable oil.
-
You will tighten the injector screws until they become a little snug, then use the inch lb. torque wrench, and tighten the adjusting screws until the torque wrench shows 55 in lbs of force. Use a regular screwdriver to hold the screw in that position, and tighten the lock nut.
On each cylinder, do the injector first, then the valves .albertaphil Thanks this. -
Oooohhh. Sorry, stranger, I was thinking that your 55in/lbs was referring to the hold-down screws. Well, then, I will give that a try. Thanks for the info. I'll get this beast running yet!
Phil -
Well, the old girl is running again! Filled with water and oil and cranked a bit with the compression release pulled to get the oil pump primed. Then the batteries went dead.
Add a boost from a couple of pickups and away she went with a bit of a lope and some white smoke for a bit, but then it smoothed out.
No white smoke, runs smooth, about the right amount of power for 250hp at 4000ft elevation (i.e. not very much
I would like to give a big THANK YOU to all of you on this forum for your interest and advice and experience. This is what makes the internet great.
Cheers,
Philstranger Thanks this. -
Glad to hear it's running. Good work.
-
Nice job geting her running again. Now do not do what the last person did and BLOW IT UP. Sorry seeing an old truck like this on the road is what makes me miss my old 73 Binder with the Rubberblock suspension.
-
The filter on the cab is usually refered to as a "Luberfiner" filter number is
750 with a letter after it, think the D is the most popular depending on the housing,the filter on the engine has a drain plug on the front which drains the oil all over everything and makes a mess, has a paper cartridge filter in it and a printo seal gasket on the lid, I had 3 of those engines, parts are tough unless you do the whole engine and use updated piston, liner kits.
Also if you use vegtable oil on the liner rings they wont swell while you are trying to install them. The factory service manuals are a dime a dozen you should be able to pick one up on ebay or somewhere cheap, has all the info you need to repair the engine and all the specs.
Trucking Jobs in 30 seconds
Every month 400 people find a job with the help of TruckersReport.
Page 4 of 5