Dealing with old man winter, a primer on winter driving.

I believe you're talking about Methyl Hydrate. Pour it in the gladhands, hook em up and apply air to unfreeze a trailer. For a tractor, you'll need to unhook the airline from the compressor. If it don't free up after just a couple of doses you need more drastic measures.

What actually freezes up is more often the protection/distribution valves which have smaller passages. They also contain o-rings and such so be real careful not to put any "treatments" containing "lubricants" which will ruin those.

 

It's good to keep a bag or two of salt or kitty litter. Sometimes that's all you need to get you going. It is way better than throwing chains and in some instances you may not be able to throw chains. Also like one of the previous drivers said in this thread, drive around the parking lot a few times and let your tires cool down. This is especially important if the parking lot is not paved. Many time I have seen drivers just park and their tires melt through the ice and then they get stuck in the mud. Make sure to have emergency food and water. Also emergency cash. Every winter at least once you will be shut down due to bad weather and if the power goes out and it is longer than a day truck stops run out of food and their ATM's don't work without power. Another good thing to keep in your sidebox is pair of coveralls or a jumpsuit. They come in real handy when throwing chains in the snow and slush.

 

And drivers,

before you start doing some of these things................

check with your company first !!!!!!!

They may NOT want you pouring chemicals in your airlines, or rocking your stuck truck until the driveshaft snaps !!!!

 

Here's a couple of "survival" tips for those who run in super cold, heavy snow areas.

Visit a camper's supply store and get you a "survival blanket"; you know, the shiny silver mylar ones. Get the biggest you can. In extremis, wrap yourself from toes to head; these work by reflecting back your body heat.

In northern climes, get yourself a Snowmobile Suit and boots, etc. These are amazingly warm and are designed to be wind/moisture proof at high speeds on a snowmobile. Wallyworld has perfectly acceptable ones much cheaper than the "Logo" ones at a snowmobile dealer. They're light to wear and easily stowed.

For heat when everything else is down carry a quart size metal can and several large candles. Soften the wax on the bottom of the candle and insert into can to provide a base. Light the wick, the metal can is a heat reflector. You can melt snow in a metal cup (or small can) over this to give you water. Don't forget to crack open a window; any open flame eats up oxygen. Do NOT use a pressurized camp stove, etc inside the cab. They use up available oxygen faster than you can replace it... kill you in minutes. Do NOT use scented type candle. The chemicals used for the scent become extremely toxic in an enclosed space.

Keep snow dug away from grille/ headlight areas, downwind door and low mounted exhaust. Grille and exhaust are obvious, when blocked they will shut down your engine. Door is to allow you to get out of vehicle. Lights are so that you can flash em if you hear something coming (eg plow, etc) so you can be quickly found.

Do not work up a sweat. This will freeze next to your skin under your clothes and you are well on your way to being dead. If you get wet, strip and put on dry clothes (you do have a change right?) immediately.

Stay with your vehicle, do not attempt to "walk out". Much easier for rescuers to find a snowbound vehice than one person wandering around lost.

If you get sleepy, set your "screaming meanie" to wake you every half hour or so. Hypothermia kills by putting you to sleep and you never wake up.

Remember at all times, YOU have to keep you alive until rescued. Hope these help.

 

Get some ORANGE trail marking tape at a hunting / sports store , in heavy drifing snow and you get stuck , tye some on to your CB antennas ( makes it easier for them to find you if you get buried in the snow )

Get the CRANKUP style flashlight ( some have a small radio ) that way you never worry about dead batteries , just crank it for a few minutes and you have light.

 

Not sure if its been brought up yet, but a small portable torch is also a nice handy-dandy thing to have, just in case banging on your brake drums with a hammer doesn't do the trick.

Also be careful when banging, pulling, screwing or twisting any line or fitting (air lines, fuel filters, glad hands, etc) made of plastic, aluminum, steel or any metal in extreme cold. Plastic air lines and fuel lines can and will shatter like glass in these temperatures. Most metals become very brittle as well.


And yes, a banana can bend metal and hammer nails in the cold, that's no urban legend...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAAQHbCvXhI

 

I love driving in the winter! That's when all of the fun starts. Plus I see it as a test of driving skills. If I can make it safely through the winter accident and incident free, then that will be another good year for me!

Plus seeing snow on pine trees is very beautiful (Oregon especially).

 

After overdosing on whining and complaining I would like to thank you for one of the best posts on this site.

JP

 

I had a very experienced driver tell me today that he uses his jake brake all the time during the winter when loaded. He is pulling 62,500 kg and claims the there is enough weight on the drives it won't cause a spin out. It makes sense.

 

Whatever you wish.... be sure to tell him thanks when you wipe out some icy night.