DEF Wire Connection Problem?

I’m a bit new to using a multimeter. Assuming I am using it correctly, it is showing 3.36 volts for the dosing valve (#4 in the image). Also, step #4a says it needs to be over 11.75 volts? If so, then the wire is apparently partially corroded?

It’s confusing using a multimeter. I am selecting the option for battery and 12 volts, and it seems to work.

EDIT:

I had the wrong instructions. I now uploaded the correct one for my truck (EPA10).

 

Ok, I finally learned how to use a multimeter. Step 4 passes with a 12.8 voltage. Step 5b does not pass. It shows a 2.59 voltage. It’s strange how the voltage is higher than it’s supposed to be. How is this even possible? What kind of wire damage will make the voltage rise instead of lower?

 

I grounded the multimeter to a negative post on my truck batteries, and then tested each of the two pins on the doser valve (or heater) connector.

Do you happen to know why Detroit’s instructions are saying the voltage should be between 2.25 and 2.50 volts for step 5, instead of just saying over 2.50 volts like on the previous step 4?

 

To correct myself, it turns out disconnected wires don’t appear to work that way. I had the entire ACM2 120-pin connector disconnected, and it only gave me 7 codes. Perhaps if I had turned on the engine it would give more codes. Update on fixed problem coming soon.

 

UPDATE———

I finally fixed this problem. To start, I was checking the wrong connector! This code is for #9 in the images posted in this thread, and it’s known as the DEF metering unit “heater.” Pin 1 of the heater connector (step 5) did not pass a continuity test to pin 16 of the ACM2 120-pin connector. In other words, there is a broken/corroded wire.

So I followed the wire from the heater connector as much as I could to the ACM2, while checking for continuity along the way. I traced it to the center of the truck for now as it was getting dark. I inserted a new wire from there to the pin 16 wire of the ACM2. Sure, I still need to find where exactly the corrosion is as it can damage other wires in the future. Adding this new wire immediately took off the amber check engine light, leaving me with the amber solid light, which should remove itself after 3 driving cycles (as well as the other codes I accidentally triggered while turning the key on with the ACM2 120-pin connector off).