dexter 10k axle oil change question

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by Rockwind1, Nov 25, 2022.

  1. Rockwind1

    Rockwind1 Bobtail Member

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    i recently acquired a 30 ft gooseneck with the 2-10k dually axles,, they are the oil bath type. one rear hub had a bad seal so i changed it out and i noticed the oil was kind of muddy in my opinion, i could feel grit in it, so i cleaned everything up good, mostly with brake cleaner and some decent sacrificial towels. those seals are not so easy to get out despite some warm and fuzzy youtube video's where they sneakily fast forward thru that part.

    on to my question. i also had to replace both the front axle brake assemblies, and once again, the oil is muddy. and again,, replacing the brakes on mine was no easy task, the old brakes were pretty rusted in place, both magnet clips had broken, wasp nest in one side. but my question is,, i have one hub left that the seal is not leaking on, so i figured i would just drain the oil and put in new oil without taking the hub off,, but the problem i am running into is that it is pretty thick oil and it's like 50-60 degrees here so it doesn't want to come out to good,, and i figure the oil is muddy like the others. getting all the muddy oil out of the inner bearing is not going to be easy,, i could take off the outer bearing and spray brake cleaner back there and get a lot of it. any tips on this? how to get the dirty oil from way in the back out? i have noticed with break cleaner that it doesn't really work on this thick oil,, i just kind of sits on top of it as opposed to combining with it and thinning the oil out.

    i guess my first thought was to take it for a drive and get the oil warm or hot,,, or i could use some mapp gas but i think that will be more trouble than it is worth. i just don't want to take the hub off,, my drums are freaking heavy. but i know if i take it off i will want to replace the oil seal, which right now isn't leaking.

    i am also wondering if the seal is not leaking but seems to be pretty old, i wonder if the rubber is getting old and stiff. maybe i should suck it up and take the hub off
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2022
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  3. Brettj3876

    Brettj3876 Road Train Member

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    If you have metal like you say you're gonna wanna do the races and bearings
     
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  4. Ridgeline

    Ridgeline Road Train Member

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    Change all the seals, flush the hubs to make them really clean, take notice of the amount of metal in them, if there is a lot, check the bearings and replace them all, not one wheel but by axle.

    It is far cheaper to replace bearings, seals and oil than to be under a load and having one bearing fail and you are on the side of the road.
     
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  5. RedForeman

    RedForeman Momentum Conservationist

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    If you do a halfas job, expect a halfas result.

    Don't just attempt to drain and fill, do it right and pull the hub. That will also insure bearing preload is correct. Sometimes doing this right is hard.
     
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  6. m16ty

    m16ty Road Train Member

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    Looks like to me you’re going to have to tear the hubs down, clean everything up, inspect the bearings, install a new seal, and put it back together.
    Otherwise, you’ll never get all the old oil out, and you need to figure out where that grit is coming from. Either somebody poured some dirty oil with grit in there, or something is coming apart inside the hub and causing the grit. Unless it’s poured in, I’ve never seen grit just work its way in from the outside, your seal will leak the oil out before it will let debris in from the outside.
     
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  7. ducnut

    ducnut Heavy Load Member

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    The hubs carry oil in their centers, between the bearings. You’ll never get all that out, without disassembly.

    With the work you’ve described so far, I would’ve pulled everything, below the frame rails. Obviously, this trailer has been neglected. If you have grit, you need to check it with a magnet. If it sticks, you know you have bearing issues. If it doesn’t, you know you have dirt intrusion, somehow. If the brakes are shot on only one axle, that tells you there’s an issue, either electrical or mechanical. No matter, all four corners need thoroughly gone through and wiring checked for power. I’d pull every bolt out of the suspension and check bushing wear. If the general trailer condition is poor, the bushings will be shot. Lastly, put power to the cord and go through every socket, connector, and inch of wiring. Most likely, there are plenty of chafed wires, corroded connections, etc. This trailer sounds like a fun project, to me.
     
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  8. Raffito

    Raffito Light Load Member

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    You can do two things. 1st do what every body else is telling you to do or take it to a shop and have them do it for you. Do it right the first time will save you money in the long run.
     
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  9. Rockwind1

    Rockwind1 Bobtail Member

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    ironically, i washed out the bearings in some diesel and they look pretty good, one wheel bearing had a little pitting on some of the rollers but the others and the races look good. i ordered some new bearings (with matching races) just in case.
     
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2022
  10. Brettj3876

    Brettj3876 Road Train Member

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    You should use new races too. Don't put a new bearing with an old race
     
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  11. Rockwind1

    Rockwind1 Bobtail Member

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    of course, i meant a bearing and race set.
     
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