So I've decided to do the head and injectors as well. I was looking in the manual for instructions how to install the head, what tools I needed etc... and it's not there. Section 1.2.5 does not exist in my manual. Section 1.2 ends at 1.2.3 then goes to 1.3. I just bought this manual a few weeks ago and it was printed in 2013.
Doing detroit bull gear, a few questions
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by allan5oh, Jun 21, 2013.
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I think the problem was the rear gear case was sagged a bit, pushing the adjustable gear down a bit too much. The other problem seems to be the bullgear is too tight against the crank. Lots of fiddling around. Found more mistakes in the manual, in the cam/cam cap+ bearings section it says to torque the two studs on the cam caps around 100 ft lbs, yet in two or three other places in the manual it says to check to verify the studs at 75-86 ft lbs after removing the nut. Also the Jake brake section has a different torque value for the cam cap bolts than other sections. Maybe it is different if you have a jake brake.
I have to find that extra deep socket for those two studs, I used the double nut method but it's not enough.
I think I did have the gears too tight, it was a bit of a whining sound. Nothing was wiped because I shut it down very quickly, all the bearings are good. But it definitely had to come apart. -
Old Post I know.... So just out of curiosity, being a hunting gear set up and the bull gear was caught early enough why can't you just line up the crank marks with the bull marks and change the bull without re timing the cam?
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619-755-4650 (Greg) -
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