Drilling/welding Pre-cautions

yes they are

 

Start with a sharp small bit and a very low speed drill. The steel should come out like an apple peel. I had six holes drilled in my truck, and it took less than 30 minutes.

It seemed the small bit with a very slow speed drill to get the pilot hole was the trick.

 

yup. slow and lots of oil. work up to the size you need. use good bits.


when they lengthen frames they generally run a sleave inside the rail that extends a few feet in front and in back of the weld for extra strength. although I have seen them done with no sleeve i'd not suggest putting allot of weight on a stretch like that. mostly done in show trucks for appearence reasons. or trucks that haul light

 

rear yellow.jpg changed the brackets for the flaps had to drill holes 4 the different type brackets, they do look kewl dont they

 

Welding - always disconnect batteries, all positive and negative cables. Voltage spikes will travel through positive and ground circuits. If you weld next to the engine, you should even disconnect the main connectors to the ECM. Always make sure the ground clamp of your welder is in good shape and you have a really good connection.
Drilling - Do not drill on the flanges, (horizontal sections of the frame). Do not use a torch or plasma cutter to "blow" holes in the frame. Try not to drill larger than 3/4" diameter. Always center punch to start your hole. Use a sharp bits. Start with a small bit and work your way up.

 

use carbide bits

 

I still remember the older International 4700, or older S-lines that all came with the frames hole punched for every model and configuration possible. The area around where the back of the cab/fuel tanks/battery boxes had factory holes everywhere. Looked like Swiss Cheese! LOL!

 

Sorry, I know this is an old thread but...
Can someone elaborate on what exactly the flanges are?

 

On the side/flat only. Top/ bottom and corners are off limits.....that's where all the strength is.