Drop/tilt deck chain/cargo strap tie-down methods

Discussion in 'Questions From New Drivers' started by WildRose, May 8, 2008.

  1. WildRose

    WildRose Light Load Member

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    Nov 15, 2007
    Hartford, CT
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    I got a job driving a double drop tilting heavy equipment trailer which has a winch on the first 8 foot drop section.

    I've been searching and really cant find anything about the proper way to attach a chain or Cargo strap to my flatbed to secure its cargo. Everyone there is telling me "the right way" to attach my straps or chains to the trailer but they are all telling me something different. The Trailer has 4 different types of hold down points/holes for chains/straps. There is a rail on the side with round bars holding it out from the sides. Also inside the rail there are square pockets where you could put some sort of stake fence thing. Then a little inside from the rails on the deck there are more square holes Then all over the deck of the trailer in the steel parts there are funny bat wing shaped holes, sorta like /O\, with slots to slide links into. Everyone so far has told me to do it a different way.

    I know its a dumb newbie question but if anyone really knows how it is suppose to be done or where I can find the answer I would really appreciate it.

    Thanks in advance

    Rosie
     
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  3. Lurchgs

    Lurchgs Road Train Member

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    ok. Now, bear in mind I know jack about this - though I'd love to flatbed.

    I'm assuming there's no ratchet points inside that outer rail.

    the slots in the deck are easiest to deal with. They're chain-grabs. Drop a length of chain through the center "eye", then turn it sideways and slide it into the 'wing' portion. Use a tightening system to snug it. (you see this a lot on flat-bed tow trucks)

    Obviously, the stake mounts are.. stake mounts.

    So, it appears the real question is,where do you secure your chain snugging system, or your straps?

    Well, actually, for heavy equipment, are straps even used?

    No matter.

    Don't attach to the stake-sockets - if they get bent, they're unusable.

    Don't attach to that bar that runs parallel to the side of the trailer (supported by the round-bar). That puts part of your securement system outside the dimensions of the trailer. Darn things are wide enough as it is. Attach to the support bars (the round bars).

    Snugging system should be on the passenger side of the trailer (less likely to affect other motorists if something goes wrong)

    I'm not sure about those square holes inboard of the rail and stake holes. maybe there's a specialized fastener? Or are they pass-through for a connection point under the bed? No idea 'tall.

    Now

    All that being said, SOMEBODY at that company should show you how they want it done. If they won't, I'd look REALLY hard at other employment. They're setting you up to fail.
     
  4. GasHauler

    GasHauler Master FMCSA Interpreter

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    You can check the FMCSR §392.9 and §393.100 through §393.142 and see what's required. However you'll need to check with the manafacturer of the chains to see if they meet the requirement or read § 393.108 (d). I always used the D-ring on the side of the trailer to secure heavy equipment but if you don't have those you have to make sure the tiedown point can meet the same spec's as the chains.

    It's all there, you'll just have to go through it and make sure you're legal.
     
  5. Lurchgs

    Lurchgs Road Train Member

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    GH - Maybe I'm reading it wrong. I read the OP as asking about technique and how-to, rather than specs and requirements.
     
  6. WildRose

    WildRose Light Load Member

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    Nov 15, 2007
    Hartford, CT
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    Actually when I first posted this I was interested in both where and how to secure my devices to the trailer. Then we get into crossing over to the opposite side of the trailer, which they only do it for the front end ( a forklift) and run a chain through the back from one side of the trailer to the other through the rod going through the counter-weight. I was looking for a link or something where they would show me.

    GasHauler, thanks for the FMCSR references :)

    This trailer has four different types of tie-down holes. They NEVER pinch links in the bat shaped holes.

    One guy runs the chain completely around the outside of the rectangular pockets between the outside rail then grab hooks a link above the bed. Another guy does the same for the round rail supports. I see most truckers going down though that rectangular pocket hole between the rails then up and around its end with the grab hook on the outside of the pocket grabing a front or rear side of the pocket.

    Then we have the Ratchet straps and weather they should just go down the outside of the rail and grab it from the bottom of the rail, or going through downward between the rail and side then up grabing the top of the rail and one guy does this really wierd double wrap around the rail.

    All of this doesn't even get into where to tie down the equipment. I had a huge "man-lift" which weighed 47,000# with all sorts of pad-eyes and holes in its frame to tie it down. I always though they were suppose to cross to the opposit side as the tie down point so it would hold it on the trailer if it rolled over, but we did nothing like that when we chained it down for the trip back to the rental place.

    <sigh> It seems every time I do it the way one guy tells me another is saying that it should be done another way.


    I am thinking that one good thing is that my first truck has a really low center of gravity but then I have this nightmare of when I get my first van with a very heavy high center of gravity rolling over the first time I drive it cause I am used to the drop deck. I sound like chicken little huh?


    arrrgggghhhhhh so much to remember and worry about for this newbie.

    Any help will be appreciated

    Thanks in advance!

    Going to curl up on the couch with a hot coffee and read a nice romantic section of FMCSR §392.9 and §393.100 through §393.142 :p

    Rosie
     
  7. Iraqvet

    Iraqvet Light Load Member

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    Oct 28, 2007
    Ashtabula Ohio
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    Gashauler has the better idea.While the thread starter was looking for techiques,they still have to be techniques that are allowed by the FMCSR.You cant go wrong when you are lookin for answer's in the book.There are a million ways to do flatbed,but only a few acceptable ways to do it right.Take the 1 chain for every 10k pound rule.My company liked one for every 8k pounds.If you have a 40k pound coil loaded shotgun,and you have 4 chains on it,you are also required to have atleast one strap on it as well.If its loaded suicide,there is no strap required.Again,you can dispute technigues,but you cant despute regulations..There are a TON out there for flatbed.Wildrose,I dont wanna sound mean,but did your company train you??If alot of other drivers are tellin you different methods,just go with the one that works best for you.
     
  8. GasHauler

    GasHauler Master FMCSA Interpreter

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    Again there is no right way to place you chains or tiedowns as long as you secure the load. And the points on the trailer must meet the requirements too.

    I've never crossed over the trailer with heavy equipment but all my equipment was on tracks. But I used 1/2 chains with binders. I never did like the ratchet type binders because I could always get a better secured load with binders and a cheater bar. You can block the inside if you like but if you're only going a short distance then a chain across the trailer might be best.

    If I were you I'd check to see if those type of tiedowns even meet the requirements. At least you can find out how many you'll need by the FMCSR's. Just remember that if you're the driver then you're the one that's responsible for the load. Don't let anyone push you into something you know is wrong. That's why I listed the FMCSR's. Once you find out what you need then you can tie down the way you like.
     
  9. MACK E-6

    MACK E-6 Moderator Staff Member

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    You got it. Some trailers only have these on the outside, while others have these also in the center.

    Well, typically ratchet binders are used here. What he would have to do is hook one side of it one or two links above where the chain attaches to the bed, to avoid twisting the chain while tightening the binder.

    Maybe for heavy equipmeny parts...

    I preferred those to be on the drivers' side so I could see them in the mirror easily.

    I wouldn't say that. It's just that everyone does things differently. Some drivers are just more meticulous than others with their load securement. What might be satisfactory for one guy might not be for another.
     
  10. Lurchgs

    Lurchgs Road Train Member

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    heh - I bow to experience.

    I still think, though, that if somebody at the company ain't showing him the ropes, so to speak, he's in a precarious position.
     
  11. MACK E-6

    MACK E-6 Moderator Staff Member

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    That's enough to hold a forklift if it's a small one.

    What I would suggest, for the size machinery you'll be hauling on that trailer, is this basic rule of thumb, 4 tiedowns at a minimum, plus 1 for each attachment, and one at articulation points. You WILL be cited a scalehouses for not securing attachments.

    For example, on a forklift with a telescoping boom such as an Ingersoll-Rand 1056, you need 5 tiedowns, 4 on the chassis and 1 to hold the boom.

    For a backhoe, like a Case 580, a John Deere 710, or a JCB 217, you need 6 tiedowns. 4 on the chassis, 1 on the front bucket, and 1 on the back.

    On a wheel loader like a 920 CAT, you need 6 tiedowns. 4 on the chassis, 1 on the bucket, and 1 in the middle where it bends, although you don't need the one in the middle if you lock it in place with the pinning system typicaly found on such machines. You won't have to worry about hauling one of these on that tilt deck because they're too tall.

    They should. That IS what they're there for.

    I do the double wrap thing. What that does is holds it in place so it doesn't fall out before you get back to the other side of the trailer to tighten it.

    It depends on where the securement lugs are on this lift. If they're are close to the outside, than you should pull your chains to the other side. This will hold it better.

    If the lugs are closer to the middle then you don't necessarily have to cross your chains.

    Don't forget to throw one over the boom.

    Screw them. You do what makes you feel comfortable. You can never have too many securements on anything.
     
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