EGR quit, its now welded shut, did I mess up?

no worries, i did mine and its been running great

 

My EGR died roughly 400,000 miles ago in the closed position. I still haven't changed it out. I get the code, but who cares. The engine runs better, oil stays cleaner longer, etc. I don't need the EGR feeding exhaust into my intake, so I am not going to worry about it.

 

Stay out of California, Canada, or Florida and you will be just fine. These states frown on it when caught. California and Canada will have higher chances of getting a computer check than Florida. I only know 1 person who was scanned in Florida, but several who have been scanned in Canada and California.

 

What about the check engine light? I considered doing this, too, but am worried that I will miss another problem because the EGR code keeps the idiot light on.

 

I do not know anything about these...but could you not wire in a resistor that will get you into the right range so the light won't come on? Where is the EGR sampled at?? Or is it just reading off the solenoid as a work/no work function?

Find out how the ECM knows if its working or not...figure out what range it should read and fix up a plug for it.

Like the fuel or boost wire trick on CATS...or tricking the second set of O2 sensors on cars and trucks when you cut the cats off. I would assume it still reads resistance to know if its working or not.

Just a thought...maybe it would work?

 

I didn't realize Florida was doing this. I thought CA and Canada were the only ones. Is it possible to enable it and disable the EGR without doing a lot of work meaning could an O/O do this him/her self if needed too??

KH

 

I would think if you ran volt/ohm meter leads to the signal wire and hot wire or however its wired in...then read the on road resistance across the sensor you would get an idea of where to start.

Have someone hold the meter as you drive...start off cold. Get a cold reading...should be in closed loop anyways...but still get a reading as a base. Then drive it under differing conditions recording what you get. A digital Klien meter would probably be best for this. Some will even record. Try to find an average and try that resistor. As cheap as they are you could get a few and try them until you got the CEL gone. Since its welded shut and not functioning I wouldn't think you would hurt anything by trying various ones.

I know they make alot of those for cars and trucks. You might could find specs from a manufacturer of the solenoid and find out the signal resistance. It shouldn't work until higher rpms anyways. I wouldn't think the egr would work down low...they don't in passenger cars and trucks anyways.

 

I've been looking into this for a couple days, can't claim to be an expert but sounds like plenty of guys have had fair luck just unplugging the egr in closed position. Since you took the added measure of welding it closed you should be in good shape. You can also look into getting an intake manifold from pdidiesel.com. The benefit of their intake is it allows for more fresh air into your engine where your stock manifold restricts fresh air and sucks on exhaust gas. you can't see internally how that is done, but you can see you can also block off the EG's. I'll be interested to hear what you come up with for a resistor or what not, I don't know what kind of reading the ECM is looking for, is it looking for a certain ohm reading or a changing reading indicating opening and closing ?