EGR valve question

CM870. If you open the "door" on the EGR valve, and let the arm pop out some, and then push the arm back down (not knowing if everything is in the same position as before), will you need Insite? Or can it move the arm back and forth, and relearn it's own endpoints? Not sure if I'm explaining it correctly, but people that know the answer will probably get the gist of what I'm asking. I'm talking about the big piece that goes into the positioning sensor, and connects to the valve with a master chain link.

 

Well, I guess it's going to need Insite. Throwing a code PID-27 FMI 4 "Percent Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve #1 Position"

 

I don't have a way to scan it. The code that I can see is PID-27 FMI 4. In my KeepTruckin dashboard, it says: "Percent Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve #1 Position". But in the truck on the Road Relay, it says: "Voltage<Normal".

Would you say the valve is bad? And for the sake of argument, if I refuse to replace it, what's the next step? Can it be ignored, or will it silent derate? Between me and you, the valve isn't leaking, I'm sure of that...

 

I don't have a light, just a code. I'll tell you what I did, and @MACK E-6 can clean the post up if I cross a line.

I opened up the valve mechanism. I saw the motor spins a large gear, which spins the arm that moves the valve up and down. That arm is connected to an axle that goes into the positioning sensor. The arm is held in place by the valve itself. So the valve needs to be in the valve guide, or the arm will gradually pop out, and start rubbing the inside of the case. So I took the valve out, and cut the top of it off with a die grinder. Then to make sure the valve rod had plenty of clearance to move up and down, I took the top of the valve, flipped it upside down, and glued it to the top if the EGR valve with some JB Weld Extreme Heat. Then, I cut a 2 1/8" piece of thin steel and blocked off the side that goes to the EGR cooler. I took a piece of that green flexible brake tubing, 0.25" OD, and used that to make a custom coolant line to bypass the EGR valve. Can you picture everything I'm talking about?

So in theory, the computer should think the EGR valve is still functioning from a mechanical perspective.

Edit: I did all this, because I was getting turbo bark at full throttle. I unplugged the motor in October, and the bark went away. But I've got low boost. (always did since I bought the truck) So I figured some might be bypassing the valve. Truck runs sustained 20.6 psi. It will spike to 30 psi, but gradually fall back to 20.6 psi on a sustained pull.

 

It's a new code. My Road Relay was able to clear all the old ones, but it just beeps when I try to clear this one. Can that code cause a silent derate? My boost is better. Sustaining about 29psi now. But lots of times it seems really RPM dependant if that makes sense. Like the VGT just works when it feels like it.