I was doing a thru pre trip and found the big red airline one the fire wall to be leaking at the union.
I drained all the air down cut the line for a tighter fit. Reinstated into the union.
Then the union was leaking so I replaced it. This was the big red hose, then I guess I knocked the little unions lose so I replaced all them little one.
Know it looks like my truck is blowing bubbles at a birthday party when ever I hit it with soapy water....
Whats the trick.?
Its driving me nuts. Something so simple and yet so complicated.
Embarrassed to ask but I'm at a loss
Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by Keepforgettingmypassword, Mar 8, 2023.
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Here's a video.Last edited: Mar 8, 2023
Dave_in_AZ, Rideandrepair and Keepforgettingmypassword Thank this. -
If they’re the push in ones make sure the airline is cut square on the end.
mp4694330, Dave_in_AZ, Chieftains and 8 others Thank this. -
And it's not uncommon for push to fit to be one time use unless you can replace the seals. If you have one leaking, replace it with a compression fitting and never worry about it again. Those push to fit are there to save assembly costs, not because they work better than compression.
m16ty, RubyEagle, Dave_in_AZ and 13 others Thank this. -
Did you replace the o rings too?
JoeyJunk, Siinman and Crude Truckin' Thank this. -
If its a compression style push in or ferrule and nut fitting make sure you have the tubing stiffener insert inside the end of the tube. Made of either brass or plastic. This keeps the tube from deforming and being crushed at the connection. The old tube ends that were cut off may have them. Sometimes you can reuse them. Altho it May be difficult to remove them from the old boogered up tube sometimes.
JoeyJunk, Keepforgettingmypassword, W923 and 3 others Thank this. -
When you tighten the lines on the compression fittings don't make them too tight that will make them leak. It's not the tightness that stops them from leaking it's the Ferrell pushes up against the barrel and that seals it. When you tighten them out just get to where you can feel that it's starting to get tight and stop. It's not a bolt that you want to crank down.
I only use compression fittings. The only time I'll use a push fitting is if it's maybe under my Dash or something hard to get to that I could just push it in and forget it.JoeyJunk, Keepforgettingmypassword, loudtom and 6 others Thank this. -
I’m wrestling with them myself. The 3 air switches on my dash. Suspension dump, and axle lock have fat o rings, and plastic lock rings. One of them is broken. The fifth wheel slider has brass inserts, thin o ring and brass lock ring. It’s the only one with a brass tube insert. Took some lock rings off a Cascadia firewall manifold. They’re steel, with plastic inserts. They don’t work. The o rings are only bad on the supply side of the switches. I was able to re use 2 good o rings, and plastic lock rings for the suspension. The other 2 are crimped off for now. I hate these switches anyways. The suspension switch still leaks at the switch, till I tap on it. They got to go. Any suggestions? Prefer the Pete style. I need the room for more gauges anyways. The fifth wheel switch doesn’t have an indicator light. The other two have them. 2 blades on each switch. Rather do away with the quick connects. Yes a seemingly simple thing, yet it isn’t. PITA.
Last edited: Mar 9, 2023
Siinman, JoeyJunk, Hammer166 and 1 other person Thank this. -
Keepforgettingmypassword, IH Truck Guy, JoeyJunk and 1 other person Thank this.
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