Engine braking vs foot braking in snow/Ice.

here is where you "refer to" light steady pressure....


"Light brake application, in my opinion, allows the ,brakes to apply more evenly."


by your words, this allows the brakes to be "ridden" or "constant" application....you know, riding the brakes...???

 

Rules to live by:

1) Turn off jakes AND cruise-control at the first sign of wet/slippery roads
2) Pick the proper gear for your traveling speed/hill
3) Apply brakes in a steady on-and-off fashion (unless you have WORKING ABS)
4) Easy on accelerator
5) Don't down-shift unless necessary.

The bottom line here is to take it easy, and don't make ANY sudden changes, or you will regret it. New England, Wisconsin, Dakotas, Rockies, Texas during a freak storm that has countless driver in the ditch because they forgot these rules... It never changes.

When descending a slippery grade, make sure you are at least 2 gears lower (adjust speed accordingly as well, over-revving the engine won't help, it's about speed and control) than you would normally take that hill. This will help maintain a steady SAFE speed going down, and help prevent the need for sudden deceleration.

When climbing a grade, make sure you enter it at the gear you'll need ALL the way up (going back to not down-shifting) and be prepared for a long climb. Be very steady on the pedal and strive to maintain your lane at all costs. Crossing that line can cause the tires to lose grip.

"Riding the snow" is actually a good idea, contrary to what most people think. The snow will fill your tread pattern, but it will also be less slick than the ice that is in the main travel pattern. Just make sure you stay there, because again, going back and forth can cause grip-loss.

Above all else, if it gets bad enough that you feel uncomfortable, or have the desire to travel at 15mph... GET OFF THE ROAD. You are putting others at risk because they may be more comfortable going faster, and they'll have to slow down when coming up to you. You are also wasting your time! There's no point in proceeding at such a slow speed, because you will eat up your time, and get nowhere.

I was driving on I-80 last night in Indiana (turnpike) and the snow was coming down rather strong. Of course, the plows were doing nothing about it. I (being from a winter state, and having learned to drive in it) was comfortable at 35-40 mph, but ran into a "crowd" that refused to go faster than 20 (at times they almost completely stopped!). This is dangerous, and the ones who were blocking our path should have parked at the service plaza that they had passed 10 miles earlier. At their speeds, they traveled those 10 miles in 30-45 min, not doing much good for their schedules.

 

You win Super Trucker now go play in traffic.

 

Let's return to discussing the topic not bickering.

 

Ok............... cool

 

The talk about a gas engine, it is a variable compression engine, a diesel is classified as a constant compression engine no throttle plate in the intake. All engine develop friction HP just turning them over. If not they would continue to turn over when you shut them off ever notice how quick it stops.

 

Here it is.. Great post 100% dead on..

Just something to add for anyone new to pulling sets or anyone that eventually will with a single axle tractor..

I never had a jake till this year when we started getting the Cascadia tractors but I turn that one off on snow/ice since I'm used to not having one anyway.

With a single axle and a set on icy roads, a tractor skid is lights out since the second you react in an attempt to save the tractor you're gonna loose the back box because of the "crack the whip" effect.. Conversely, if your back box locks up and starts to go sideways, all you have to do is let off the brakes and it comes right back even if it's pretty far out there. My general rule on snow/ice whether I'm going up, down, or on a flat is to keep the rpm's low to prevent losing the tractor.

I've run a lot of the nasty Pa roads like Pa31 (Haz-mat trail around the Somerset tunnel), Pa350, US22, Pa153, and US322 with a set in snowy/icy conditions and dry clear nights.. On dry clear nights I always use the snub braking technique but when it gets greasy I apply the brakes at the top and don't let off till the bottom while being a gear high to keep my rpm's low.. I've come down 7 Mountains and Bald Eagle on snow-pack with 44k in the boxes and empties riding the brakes and never smoked em' or lost it so I'm pretty convinced that this works..

 

Really? Next time contribute to the conversation. 35-40 mph was perfectly safe last night, and I never even came close to losing traction. When other people panic, it creates a dangerous situation for those who are not panicking, as well as to themselves.

Short answer... Yes.

Realistically, it is just more efficient to focus on braking safely, rather than messing with jakes, trollies, and regular braking all at the same time.