The issue: Espar airtronic D2 bunk heater not blowing warm air, blowing cold air. cycling on and off doesn't reset code. Not working after turning off.
Additional information: There was extensive trouble shooting prior; including, checking the entire electrical system, replacing the bunk heater fuel pump several times, replace the glow plug, clean the combustion chamber, replace the inside screen of the combustion chamber, and replace the entire fuel line from the espar unit to the flow tip of the fuel pump. Nothing of the listed above seemed to be the root cause of the issue. unTIL, the fuel line was ,mentioned previously, was replaced for a larger diameter 1/4 outer diameter as shown on image number 1. The original fuel line was extra thin probably 1 millimeter in inner diameter with no fuel visibility.
Identification of the issue: The issue with this unit was found to be the fuel tank fitting, as shown on image 6, is probably leaking air into the fuel hose intake not allowing the espar fuel pump to pump pressurized fuel across the the fuel system to the espar. In other words, pump can not lift fuel from the tank into the espar bunk heater causing the unit to cycle on and off without ever priming the fuel system.
Thermoking evolution users: If the espar unit has an error code and after turning the on/off switch located on the apu and on the truck dash and pressing the power button on the bunk area many times after waiting 15 minutes and the espar bunk heater DOES NOT seem to RESET and the vent does not start blowing cold air through it ***then*** the APU positive cable off the truck batteries needs to be disconnected and reconnected after 15 minutes. Make sure the apu power switch, dash switch and bunk power buttons are OFF position before disconnecting positive cable from battery.
Different solution: it was decided to run the bunk heater from a side diesel tank located inside the truck. This includes setting the tubbing from the driver side panel into under the truck. The reason is to improve the passage of fuel using 50 percent gravity like if it was relevant and to install a different fuel hose system that allows the visualization of the the diesel fuel from the side tank to the diesel pump to the espar bunk heater. Much more efficient, in my opinion, but the draw back is that the tank needs to be refilled and kept away from heat sources and in a safe area to avoid spills.
Materials needed: 7 feet of quality FUEL hose of your choice. DO NOT use regular hose tubing. HOSE FOR FUEL ONLY.
Please see images 1 through 7 attached below.
***Try everything mentioned above, if you decide to do so, at YOUR VERY OWN RISK***
: ) lol...foolish.
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Espar bunk heater not heating blowing cold air *repair tutorial*
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by crucar1800, Jan 18, 2025.
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Is the fuel pump mounted at all? Looks like it's just laying on the tank. When I installed my espar D2, I remember it had a specified angle the pump should mounted within. I could be looking at the pictures wrong but, that install looks sketchy, especially the fuel lines inside the cab. Why so much fuel line anyway? My truck has around a foot of fuel line, all outside the cab.
Fuel pick-up line is threaded into the tank- short piece of fuel line to the the pump which is mounted directly above under the sleeper- Espar unit mounted in the back corner of the luggage compartment a few inches from the pump. It's super simple.
Who installed that? -
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I’m confused by your description.
Are you saying your solution is having a tank and fuel lines mounted inside the truck?
Or is that what you were saying was foolish?
So I don’t understand what you’re final solution was. -
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***UPDATE: Not recommended to have fuel reservoir inside at the same level of the bunk heater. Reservoir must be at the same level of truck fuel tank lower than bunk heater, so fuel doesn't flood the Espar combustion chamber.
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I know you said the fuel pick-up fitting was leaking air which makes a lot of sense considering the problem your experiencing but, I was thinking of the possibility the pick-up tube inside the tank being corroded and drawing air when, and if the fuel level was below the corroded area.
When I installed mine some years ago the fitting had a fairly thick wall pick-up tube that was zinc plated steel. Seemed stout but, it's still steel and I don't have much faith in the corrosion resistant coatings used these days. I felt for the price of the unit 321 stainless would be a far better option. Plus to replace that pick-up tube on my truck, the tank has to be dropped.
It's worth a look. Should be able to back out the fitting and raise it enough to see the condition of the tube. If not, you can duct tape your phone to a rod or something, lower it down the fuel filler and record some video inside the tank. Best if fuel level is down to half tank.crucar1800 Thanks this. -
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