+1 on por "pour over rust" 15. I fabed steel motor mounts for my boat, covered in por 15. 6 years in a salty bilge, no rust.
get the small cans. It does not keep well after opening. If you get it on you, it will be on you!
Exactly how big of a deal is rust on my frame...
Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by BORNtoROAM, Dec 21, 2013.
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all the advice is much appreciated. i feel much better about it now. unless i find rust has eaten deeper than i thought in some places...
and thank you for not belittling me for buying a rusty truck. dealer dropped the price so much i probably would have bought it if it didn't have wheels -
I owed a 1961 steel hauled houseboat made out of 1/8" steel. It lasted 40 years and it only had bad metal in the head where everyone was drunk and missed the john.
That's kind of similar to road salt. The rest of the boat metal was fine. Rust is like cancer. It's slow spreading for many years until one day it's out of control. Yours is probably surface rust which will leave pits. It should still have it's structural integrity.
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read a lot about POR 15. sounds like some very heavy duty stuff. also scary stuff. but very effective when applie exactly as instructed. i was almost scared away from using it after reading a few horror stories. but now i feel like it's the only thing that will make me feel confident i put a stop to the rust spreading and doing structural damage. i just wonder how much i will need. it's expensive
so after extensive research here is my plan of attack so far:
-grind off all existing paint and smooth out the rusted areas
-apply the metal prep por15 sells
-make sure it's completely dry and use black gloss por15 rust preventive paint to coat the main structure of the frame and diff etc that i can access with a paintbrush. i'm not going to put a top coat on it
then i think after it's good and cured i'll wire brush the tighter spots like 5th wheel baseplate area and treat with OSPHO in a spray bottle which converts surface rust into iron phosphate. then all i have to do is lightly sandpaper the residue it leaves behind and prime/paint with a cheaper rustoleum style paint
it's going to be a lot more work than i originally thought but it'll look much better and i'll feel relieved to have taken care of it
you guys who have used pos15 before think this sounds ok?Last edited: Dec 21, 2013
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btw POS 15 isn't a rust converter. it merely forms an incredibly hard tight seal around the rust depriving it of oxygen so it can't spread anymore. rust converters use phosphoric acid to react with rust and turn it into something harmless. but the problem is it will only react with what it touched on the surface.. it will leave rust beneath in really bad spots. so OSPHO is perfect for my more lightly rusted spots like the base plate and bolts. i'll spray it on my wheels too. anywhere i see light surface rust
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I used POR 15 in a body shop a few times, dont sand the rust all the way off it says it works better with some rust (Big rust scale- remove). Nothing to be scared about -but more precaution is needed if spraying.
milskired Thanks this. -
yeah i wasn't planning to grind all the rust off, just smooth the bumps a bit so they don't show through the paint. i just need to grind all the old paint off mostly. but the metal prep stuff they want you to use is supposed to help it bind with non-rusty metal as well i believe. the por15 just needs some kind of texture to grab onto is the main thing i gathered.
spraying that crazy stuff in this west texas wind sound like a nightmare. it would be a mess. plus you have to thin it first i guess. and get a good sprayer. and a SCBA -
As far as sprayers go --just get a harbor freight gun --for cheap --brushing it on is fine if you are not making a show truck - and like i said if you are going to top coat it -wait till it sets up well and spray your primer on carefully.
The black color dries to a opaque kind of black --not a deep jet black.
Here is my opinion on the frame rust and maybe in "Big Truck " land its different-- but stop it the best you can --if it passes inspection your good - but who knows what DOT cops have to say about it ? -
You can go down to NAPA and get dust masks and a respirator. You don't need a grinder, just a wire wheel and I bet you'll see clean metal in a second. If you don't then you have issues no paint is going to fix.
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Hang-Man has got it! I never sprayed it, just brushes. Got the cheapest ones I could find so I didn't have to worry about cleaning them!
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