Fair price to install vinyl floors in my truck?

Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by bigdad7, Jan 19, 2019.

  1. bigdad7

    bigdad7 Road Train Member

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    I was thinking about asking the handyman remodeling my house to install wood/vinyl floors in my truck ....what is a fair price for that and what would be a fair price to do that from a mobile truck at a truck stop...he is thinking about using that as a side business if there is any money in it
     
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  3. Bakerman

    Bakerman Road Train Member

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    You buy the product and get him a 12 pack of whatever beer he likes.
     
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  4. Wombat63

    Wombat63 Light Load Member

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    Funny, I was just talking to the missus about installing hardwood floor, I've installed them in my house it really isn't hard to do, and I'm sure the truck/sleeper will stay cleaner than having the carpet! Slab of beer sounds like a good trade!
     
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  5. Kshaw0960

    Kshaw0960 Road Train Member

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    Never touched a hardwood floor plank in my life but I learn trades quickly. Took me 4 hours to do just my sleeper. Im going to say that materials would be floor insulation, 4 boxes of hardwood floors, and an entire day. So let’s say $160 plus whatever for labor. If I was doing it I would probably charge $600. To remove seats, rip old stuff up, clean it, install it, clean up again, and your materials (saw etc.) plus I hated doing it so I need motivation. Total time would probably take me 10 hours depending on type of truck. A fair price probably $300. $460 total.

    Raneys charges $999 just for the kit so you’re still much cheaper.
     
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  6. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    D377D3D9-4E88-436A-B3CD-9296E40ABD87.jpeg 9BE24677-D121-426C-8BF2-6C0A807D1ECE.jpeg I plan on doing mine soon. Gonna use new vinyl click planks. Very easy to do_One day job.If Removing seats and accelerated pedal, may need longer bolts, maybe some couplers to extend them.its easier to just work around it. Run the boards starting at the angle near pedals working each way from that point. I removed everything 11 yrs ago and put rubber padding with carpet. Carpets long gone. Condensation collects between rubber and metal. Gonna use vent insulation from Lowes frost king 1/8” foam sticky on one side and aluminum on other. I just did the inside of Doors with it. 15 sq ft roll for $18
     
  7. TruckRunner

    TruckRunner Heavy Load Member

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    Just buy a measuring stick and a table saw and do it yourself. I installed wood panels in my house years ago and smile at the great job I did every time I walk on them.
     
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  8. loudtom

    loudtom Road Train Member

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    I've got some pretty thick insulation over the old carpet, and the vinyl planks are cracking at the joints. I think it's a combination of being too soft underneath, and having an overactive Great Dane in the truck. Next time I think I might remove the old carpet and put a more solid subfloor, as well as hardwood instead of vinyl.

    The cabinets in the Volvos can be time consuming to remove. They are heavy, bulky, and you have to unscrew more than just the cabinets to access the mounting bolts. I always joke that you have to remove the headlights to get the cabinets out, because of how many unrelated parts share or cover the bolts. Maybe the other truck brands are easier to get under the cabinets, but it would take much less time to go up to the cabinets instead of underneath them.
     
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  9. Kshaw0960

    Kshaw0960 Road Train Member

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    Yeah that’s why I used snap together flooring. If you used regular flooring there’s no way it will last long and still look good. The floor of my truck has overlapping aluminum, tons of rivets and bolts, and it’s impossible to have a perfectly flat floor. I believe the snap together type keeps the planks flexing all the same.
     
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  10. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    I leveled my floor in my Freightliner using rubber mats in the lower panels first and so on. Layering it. Followed by a roll of foam floor padding. Got rid of musty padding. Windshield leaked and Truck had sat.Usually there’s a hump from dash to the bunk for the abs ecu. It’s all flat, but condensation is the problem. The padding and layers need to be glued in. The old auto padding is treated with anti- microbial agents. Designed to get wet and dry. They sell same padding for flooring. Some has it already on the backing. Supposed to be for slabs , even basements. I still don’t like it as it will get wet and trap moisture and get musty.I ripped a bunch out of my house from kitchen when I bought it. It was musty since house sat vacant a while.Sorry about long post. I’ve been planning this for a while. After doing the doors with the frost king foam as mentioned earlier. I’ve decided to do floor with same stuff.Maybe glue floor over insulation to avoid condensation
     
  11. fortycalglock

    fortycalglock Road Train Member

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    You need a subfloor over the insulation. I would not recommend any wood floor (laminate, engineered or solid) for the truck. There’s too many changes in humidity and temp, plus the scratches!!! If I were to do another one, it would only be vinyl plank on top of some moisture treated ( like red guard) sub floor. I used two layers of the interlocking gym foam flooring for insulation and would use that again.
    Here’s my old thread. I repeat I’d never do wood again.

    My hardwood floor adventure
     
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