Diagnosing a bad fan clutch and just about on my way to get the part but honestly I’m not 100% sure. I’ve got two of the symptoms being the fan doesn’t spin freely enough and my initial symptom which is rather loud and semi prolonged air loss when the ignition is turned off. About 10 seconds. A mechanic brought it to my attention saying that the air release I assume is normal is still excessive. Truck has 700k on a dd15. I’ve got no play and the fan spins strong. so im thinking its just not bad yet but yes its a failing clutch. I have the rear on/off clutch
1090-09650-01B. Saw a borg and warner for $515 and freightliner has the original Kyser at $415 I believe. I’m thinking the FTL or the BW is about the same. So any advice on the diagnosis, Thx for reading!
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Figure I’d Ask.
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by J.S., Aug 23, 2025.
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At operating temperature when you shut it down, how long does the fan spin. And with it good and hot how does it feel turning it by hand? It's an air operated fan switch right? With the key on and engine off you can see if the fan turns. If it doesn't unplug the solenoid and see if it is free.
Last edited: Aug 23, 2025
J.S. Thanks this. -
Two things, first is that BW owns Kyser, they are the same.
Second, BW makes a rebuild kit for their air clutch products. I think it is like $90. once you have it off, it is not a hard rebuild. But I would first find out if you need to rebuild it or if you have an air leak to the clutch.J.S. Thanks this. -
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Just tried an another diagnosis which I turned the into on and listened for air and their was none. Another question I have is if I needed the entire assembly or not. I’m leaning towards no. It want to replace iit if it helps. Talked to Detroit and was advised that the assembly is rarely the problem. What do you guys think? For me I’m in the early stages of a clutch going bad and the clutch alone problems just needs to be replaced?
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GOT AN UPDATE!!!
checked the plug for the fan clutch near the firewall and there wasn’t any abnormal functions but later on today when I went back out to the truck I turned the key to on and got the air leaking at the clutch. Never had that before. So now I am sure it’s the clutch. I tried to feel around to pinpoint the air but not sure if it came from the connector fitting or from the top of the hub. So now Ive removed the fan blade and the tensioner and I’m looking at the air port on the hub. I was going to unscrew the connector to be able to remove the hub but it was rather easy to twist and I thought maybe that it was the problem not being tight enough that was causing the leak. So I had to run to AutoZone and get a stubby 9/16th and now I’ve tightened it a bit and would like to build some air in the system to check it but the belts are off. Im not sure if I can start the engine without the belts? Anybody know? I think I can but not sure. Or if there’s another way to get air in the tanks? Update done!Last edited: Sep 17, 2025
Reason for edit: Misspelling -
Ok to start the engine with belts off to build air.J.S. Thanks this.
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If it is leaking internally u may just want to replace it.. not sure if they can be rebuilt or not. I lost my fan clutch last year. It had an internal leak which cause it to not fully engage against the fan, which burned up the clutch material and eventually the fan stopped engaging at all. Causing the engine to overheat. And a tow truck showed up a couple hrs later.J.S. Thanks this.
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UPDATE!
got the hub and clutch out and somewhat inspected it. One of my concerns is the brass air fitting. It looks like it can stand replacement. Also I just heard that the hub bearing should be replaced as well. Anybody heard that before? I call kit masters and got a part number for it. I’m editing on the new clutch. I’ll upload photos of the hub once I get the clutch off.Attached Files:
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Never had to rebuild one but I would make the assumption there is a spring in there to either release or engage the clutch.
Use caution, nobody likes to get smacked in the face with parts.J.S. Thanks this.
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