Fix or buy new steer axle?

Good advice.
My mechanic was recommending to get it from a newer year. So I assume less miles. But I guess that’ll mean doing some modifications.

 

Get her done.

It's like a woman, it's not going to wait on you forever.

Get a bunch of twist ties, little tags with a grommet hole in them. Write down exactly what the bolt, washer, nut came off of and better yet reassemble as a group to put into storage. Keep the old axle, assembly, bolts etc where possible as a spare. At some point there aint going to be any more axles. Yer it.

 

Now we’re getting somewhere!
Good idea.
At least I’ll learn

 

A new axle is not that much money ... the labor to do it all is what gets you. And by it all. New spring and hanger bushings, kingpins, hub bearings and races, shocks, along with the axle R&R.

 

I wonder if I misunderstood the problem?
Welding was on the grease cap. Does that not bolt on to the spindle. Then the only thing that would need to be replaced is the spindle.
Wear in the axle end was mentioned which would warrant axle replacement but is uncommon.
Do not know about upgrading to a different axle width on this model. However I do know that when I go changing stuff around it often has problems. Problems require time and cash.
Why why why I wonder why this would cause a vibration that changes with speed?

 

You can sleeve an axle they do it all the time unless it is wore past spec. Welding grease caps on top and bottom of spindle is a normal practice any good spring shop will tell you that.

 

Sounds like typical Spicer axle issues. They had the knuckles on back order for awhile and welding was the only economical solution. Any good suspension shop can repair worn axle bores and knuckle bores. Whatever you do don't use the spiral groove bushings that are hand installable. They were the reason for many knuckle bores being worn.

 

... when the time comes, I plan on getting a new axle. Will probably do something stupid like a 12 ga or Rod Pickett air ride front at the sime time. But, back on track, a buddy of mine just had his drilled and sleeved by a axlesurgeons.com vendor here in Arizona with very good results. They did it at an alignment shop (basically in the parking lot) and it cost him very near what it would have been to just do kingpins.

 

Judging by what he posted the rears need to be adjusted for side thrust.

The 33” vs 34” is the wider stance axle Kenworth began using as an option for a better turning radius.

 

Maybe I read this wrong but if both front tires are wearing on the right side edge then the problem is in your tandems it’s pulling to the right I’ve been doing front ends for a long time and maybe I’m missing something here !
If they’re both wearing on the outside or they’re both wearing on the inside I would say toe and go but if it’s pulling to the right and both tires are wearing on the right hand edge that’s in the tandems !!