Truck is set up already for skateboarding, headboard, toolboxes, etc....... also they have all maintenance records...
Flatbed tractor questions
Discussion in 'Flatbed Trucking Forum' started by NYCgorilla, Nov 24, 2020.
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Acert sounds familiar. I think I've read here to stay away from them...
May be wrong though
What's the year, mileage and approx price of the truck? -
FerrissWheel, MACK E-6 and NYCgorilla Thank this.
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Its the SDP Acert you want to stay away from. MXS and BXS are fine.
tommymonza, Crude Truckin', FerrissWheel and 2 others Thank this. -
I think you would improve your odds of finding the right truck if you expanded your search to include modern emissions trucks. But it's important to research how and why they function before you do. I learned the hard way, spending $10,000 at a shop that didn't bother to check a $7 in-line fuse to the aftertreatment control module. Since I didn't know anything, I was pretty much trusting the "professionals" to do the right thing.
I would be a good candidate for telling you to avoid newer trucks, but I decided to learn as much as I could about them instead, and I'm still continuing to learn more about them. There is a ton of information on this site, on YouTube, on Rawze, and all over the internet. You just have to want to learn, and have tools and patience. It also helps to have a way to bypass the 5 mph derate in the event that you have a problem under load. Some trucks you can unplug the speed sensor, or you can get a tool from a company like OTR performance that can reset the codes and perform a forced regen for you.
So not only will you open up the possibility of finding a truck that's closer to the specifications you want, but it also should be more fuel efficient and cleaner than some of these older trucks. Regardless of what you choose, it's important to find someone who you can trust to work on your equipment.NYCgorilla Thanks this. -
In my case, my best case scenario would be:
- big cam 2 or 3 engine (at least 400hp?)
- 13 speed or 18 speed
- 3.xx rears
- 220"+ wheelbase
- sleeper
If I found something like that, I think I would have a solid truck, that I can repair at a reasonable cost and learn to do some repairs myself.
Only downside here that even though I have everything I wanted....i'm still going to wind up with a 5 to 6 mpg truck.
My other option, that heavy spec daycab with 4.60 rears and an 8LL, would probably even get worse mileage...maybe as bad as 3 to 4 mpg.
If I went the route of a newer truck, like a freightliner with a dd15/dd16, I'd probably end up spending something around $80k for a used example with 100,000 miles on it. I would hope I could get 200,000 to 300,000 problem-free miles out of it, but who knows? Let's say I get 8 mpg out of that.
If I theoretically drove 10,000 miles a month, The 2018 freightliner would cost me $3375/mo in fuel. The 1985 Peterbilt big cam would cost me $4500/mo in fuel and the Heavy spec day cab would cost me $6750/month.
The new truck would save me thousands a month in fuel costs. It seems so clear cut...but I don't know.
Things like this concern me:
"I learned the hard way, spending $10,000 at a shop that didn't bother to check a $7 in-line fuse to the aftertreatment control module."
With these new trucks it sounds like I'm holding a ticking timebomb. It sounds like a couple serious problems can eat up all of your fuel savings very quickly.loudtom and singlescrewshaker Thank this. -
Seems you're overlooking one of the most reliable power plants all together, as I've heard no mention of them throughout this entire thread.. Why aren't you looking at Series 60 Detroit powered rides..?
They are every bit as reliable as a 3406 Cat, & cheaper on parts. If you don't drive like a Gorilla, you can see 6-7.5 mpg out of one. Can find 12.7L with power ratings from 360-500hp, & 14L up to 575hp. DDEC II, III, IV are all fine choices. They range from ~1987-2002 before egr hit if memory serves..DieselDisciple, Dino soar, God prefers Diesels and 3 others Thank this. -
So just to reiterate and clarify, these were the options I was considering, including feedback from everyone here...
Option 1: 2000 Freightliner FLD120SD daycab. n14 celect plus. 435hp and 4.60 rears. Double frame. 8LL. (60k miles...$35k)
Pros: Cheap price, solid engine, super low original miles, the truck might be versatile (can flatbed or HH?)
Cons: Heavy spec not optimum for flatbed, low mpg, rough ride, no sleeper.
Option 2: 1981 Peterbilt 359 low roof sleeper. big cam 2. 400hp 3.xx rears. 13 speed transmission. (400k miles...$35k)
Pros: Cheap price, legendary mechanical engine, low maintenance...nice old truck
Cons: Maybe too old, maybe not enough hp (debatable)
Option 3: 1998 Kenworth w900 sleeper. N14. 525 hp 3.55 rears. 13 speed transmission. (800k miles...$55k)
Pros: very nice sleeper...perfect specs for flatbedding
Cons: may be due for an engine overhaul
Option 4: 2019 Freightliner Cascadia sleeper. dd15 500hp 3.55 rears. Auto transmission. (100k miles...$100k)
Pros: modern truck, powerful
Cons: sensor issues are a problem waiting to happen and price....I probably can never work on this truck in a meaningful way
Also, I may have misspoke when I said "regional"
The goal is to work the loadboards and stay within a 250 mile radius and hopefully be home everyday. I'd like to have a sleeper in case that strategy doesn't work though
I don't know how to define it, maybe that would be considered "local"blairandgretchen and singlescrewshaker Thank this. -
I have heard plenty of good about the series 60. The only thing that I've read is that they blow turbos...?
But yes, I got stuck on the idea of a Big Cam or N14.singlescrewshaker and jamespmack Thank this. -
How far are you willing to travel to look at/buy truck?
singlescrewshaker and NYCgorilla Thank this.
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