straps usually last bout a year on my truck, an I run local in crappy weather an haul salt. big key is dont drop them on the ground an make sure you protect the straps from sharp edges
flatbedding tricks of the trade?
Discussion in 'Questions From New Drivers' started by slatherd, Nov 23, 2008.
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Invest in a quality winch bar. The longer, the better, the more leverage.
No brainer, Don't wear clothes you care about. Work jeans and t-shirts are cheap enough, get them and leave your good clothes for off time or they WILL get ruined.
Never get coaxed into carrying a lumber tarp to the top of your load. There is no reason you should ever have to lift one of those beasts, I haven't met a forklift driver yet that won't put them up for you.
When it's windy and you're trying to tarp, drag a chain up with you to keep the end you aren't working on down. Unless you actually like hillbilly para-sailing.
In the winter, keep your straps in the compartment under your bunk. If you put them external boxes you'll likely find balls of ice where you left your straps.
On most 48' spreads, your stake pockets are just about two feet apart and your side turn signals are usually in the dead center, easy way to measure for spacing dunnage.
I have those ice spikes that slip on the bottom of your shoes. Nothing like trying to crank winches and busting you butt on the ice instead. -
I drive a covered wagon. Keep organized. Set up before u pull in if u can.
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Learn to throw straps with the sling. Make a loop and put the coil in the center to use as leverage to get it over the load. Works even with a load of insulation.
Never leave your straps out on the winches. Someone said to put them in a sidebox in the the tractor. Yep. Strapsicles suck.
A 6' length of pvc pipe about 1" diameter. An s shaped potato masher. Bend the masher up and push the handle into the pvc pipe. This is used to put your bungees up on high rings.
Get yourself a tarp repair kit. Tarp glue and some spare material. If you have a load that must stay dry and the machinery from your last load tore your tarp, fix it yourself and keep rolling.
Please, please, please get out and help your fellow flatbedders to fold tarp and roll straps. Pay attention to their lead, everyone has their own way of doing things. When you are in a line to unload, it makes the line move faster. Flatbedders help each other.
You can't have too much padding material. I was a packrat. I had carpet scrap, rubber mat from paper rolls, all sorts of stuff to save my straps and tarps from sharp edges.
Do your load checks. I hate to see flatbed loads going down the road with loose flapping straps, and unsecured freight makes me nervous.
Be organized and make a system. The first load I tarped took me 3 hours. When I was about done with it, it took me 30-45 minutes.
I liked the Gorilla Ladder. I used a cable lock and stowed it on top of my sidebox.
If you can't remember the top surface of your load after you roll out your tarps, and it happens to be one of those lumber loads that have holes, just get down on all fours and crawl. I didn't care what it looked like, I didn't like the knot on my shin from stepping into a hole.
If your company supplies VEEBOARDS, they are good. If not, they are spendy, but a great investment. I loved mine.
Look at tarped loads on the road. Especially the ones that look like Christmas. You will get it.
Good: gloves, boots. More than one of each. If something gets wet, you have to press on. Invest in warm Carhart or Walls insulated overalls and jacket. No hood. Gets in the way.
Broom, snow shovel, 50/50 kittylitter salt mix. Comes in handy, or stay south of I 40 in the winter.
BE CAREFUL!!!!!! Don't fall. Good luck!
Sure do miss it, not the trucking for the lady over 50 tho.....Last edited: Nov 28, 2008
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I had a load of lumber to drop at the Home Despot D.C. and a former skateboarder came over to help me with the tarps and shoot the $h*t...made my day....
This is what it's all about people, helping each other to make things better.... -
they ait much i acan ad to this one but i will say if u ever hear a driver givein away "oswego pads" jump on it or any other slip pads or friction pads you can buy them but if u load coils out of oswego new york they are free but they limit you to what you get ummmm......try not to let your side boxes or head-ache rack get cluttered......it will all run like a well oiled machine if you go open the door and dont have to dig for a certian thang just reach in and pull it right out.....thats about all i can thank of....be safe....help out......have fun while doin all the above
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Save time and money, get one of these...
Mike -
With loads (pipe) that range from $2.30-$2.90/m I think I'll stick to tarping when I have to do so.
How do you load tanks and APC's on a Conestoga?
Looks like they're good for hauling MDF, CPB, and framing studs though.... -
I was being a smart arse. And your rates are low.
This paid $5.00 a mile on 600 miles...
But, seeing as the automotive biz is in the tanks... I am over at Schneider yanking their trailers for $2 a mile. Beats going broke on my couch in Detroit.
So are you getting steady freight? Seriously, I know what you are speaking of. Those rates were normal out here just a 6-8 months ago. But I have been quoted expedite for $1.70 a mile for my wagon, and even less. The rates for flats just totally suck. And, IF, you get that $4+ load, there is nothing going back, not even at backhaul rates. You sit, or dh, dh and dh. And than wind up back at the house out of frustration. And I ain't moving nothing for less than fuel, what the hell good is that? I may as well of stayed home.
Right now, and I hate to say it, I am doing better at Schneider dragging their wagons than what I could do on my own. And I never thought I would ever say anything like that. Swalling my pride.
Mike
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