The two big fuses you referenced are marked sleeper, both of those are good. the four lugs are all hot when the ignition key is on. I appreciate your help immensely!
there is a slim possibility One of the wires could be mislocated on the starter. it had to come on and off multiple times because Fleet Pride failed to mention to me it requires a spacer. I did my best to zip tie the positive wires and keep them separated, but there was a lot of cussing and sweat in my eyes. Keep in mind crossing over the firewall solenoid or sending power to the signal wire fires it right up so it can’t be too far off I don’t think.
FLC 120 no crank, new batteries, starter, solenoid
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by Showhauler03, Jun 7, 2025.
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Last edited: Jun 8, 2025
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Bean Jr. Thanks this.
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If freightliner doesn’t have any wisdom tomorrow I’m tempted just to run a new wire from the IGN on the ignition switch to the signal post on the firewall solenoid and add a 15 amp in line fuse.
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Key on, should have power both sides of most. Any that only have power on one side are bad -
I tested every fuse, all good. I then ran a wire from the ignition switch to the signal terminal on the firewall solenoid. When I turned the key, it started cranking the motor so I let go of the key and it kept cranking. I had to hit the battery master to get it to stop. That circuit must be controlled by the ECM or a relay I guess. I’ll be at freightliner when they open tomorrow. I’ll let you know what I find out and once again thank you so much for your help!
Bean Jr. Thanks this. -
Bean Jr. Thanks this.
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