FLD120 low coolant temperature

Put some plastic, or cardboard between the cac and radiator. Fan pulls air in.

 

Joey you sound like you have someone that is building an engine that they're going to put in for you. Here are some things that you should change while that engine is out.

Change all of the motor mounts and radiator mounts. Also if there cracked or broken change the cab mounts. On those trucks if the cab mounts are bad and the cab moves it will throw your clutch off.

I assume they are going to put a new clutch in. Make sure they give you a new pilot bearing and input shaft and input shaft bearing and new Forks and a new clutch brake. I use a two-piece haldex clutch brake because it's very simple to change if you need to. The one piece it's supposedly better made but absolutely that is one job I would not want to do. And it's a job I would not want anyone else to do.

Make sure they change anything bad in your clutch linkage, any of the swivel joints that are there whatever have them change it.

Also have them change the clutch cross shafts and the bushings. Unless at some point you had transmission work done and they replaced them and you greased them constantly with the rest of the truck, they're worn out.

If you have them change those two things the clutch will be smooth and easy and you'll be amazed at how nice it feels and how well it works. And you won't have to worry about having the cab cause vibration that you may think is coming from somewhere else.

If it were me while the drive shaft is down and the transmission is out I would have them change the rear seal on the transmission also.

@Rideandrepair - did I miss anything?

 

I was thinking you already have a 8 groove pulley York A/C compressor, and pad mount 8 groove alternator, like I had. With the new bracket, all I needed was an 8 groove Sanden a/c compressor. I just realized you have the old style, 1999 and older, 2 groove V belts, with 2 groove ear mount alternator, and 2 groove York a/c compressor. Might as well keep what you have. Later you can upgrade if you want. You’ll need the bracket, an 8 groove accessory drive pulley, a pad mount alternator with an 8 groove pulley, a Sanden compressor with 8 groove clutch pulley, a belt tensioner, and the belt. The other thing to consider is the a/c lines. The compressor ends need to be changed/ converted/ or custom made. A different pigtail for the Sanden a/c clutch. The fan should be the same. It should be a 3 groove, 3 V belts running off the crank. I had your system on my 99. I thought when I bought the new 2000 Truck, with pad mount alternator, I was good. Soon found out they break bolts too. The problems vibration supposedly. Possibly made worse by the York compressor and bad vibration damper. It’s just a bad Freightliner design. Peterbilt’s have different set up, with alternator on the Drivers side, separate belts. I don’t think they have any problems with bolts breaking. Good covers, good bracket, keep the bolts tight, is about all you can do. It’s a problem on both brackets. The 2002 upgrade looks good. I’m thinking of adding the 4 bolts, if mine start breaking. So far so good. Someone could drill the bracket, and weld 4 deep Nuts to the inner cover. Using the right length bolts, have the same design. The covers are about $2000 new. The chances of finding a used one seem thin. The brackets are also expensive at the Dealer. Never saw an aftermarket with the 4 extra top bolts. I’ve been dealing with broken bolts for 22 yrs. on these engines. Be nice to know it’s fixed once and for all.

 

You got it covered. All the stuff learned the hard way. Only thing I can add, is when changing the linkage, cab bushings, or motor mounts, be sure to have the clutch properly adjusted first, then adjust linkage for proper pedal free play, and clutch brake operation.

 

How much you spending to rebuild?

 

Why not take it down to Texas.
El Paso and Laredo. Cheap labor.
Or buy a reman. 25k gets you a lot.