Fridge and stove.

Dometic makes them but they are very pricey. The key to them is Danfoss compressor, it a special low voltage compressor that does not require lots of power to get started. Dometic and Weaco are the same company from what I read and I believe they just switched from Danfoss compressor to their own made one. So not sure if they are as good.

This is the older one I believe with the danfoss compressor

https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-CF-110AC110-Freezer-Refrigerator-Jumbo/dp/images/B0030G7YIC

 

Or find a company that fits their trucks with a fridge... just another option.

 

New version just not sure about the compressor
https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-CFX-95DZUS-Portable-Electric-Refrigerator/dp/B01GEK9ZAK

 

You'd need a 1800w+ inverter to run one, but Costco has a portable induction stove unit that I've been eyeing for a while.. not getting it since I don't have a high enough wattage inverter, but if I did, I'd be all over that thing.

Something similar: Secura 8100MC 1800W Portable Induction Cooktop Countertop Burner, Gold https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045QEPYM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FAUFybTV2VRAQ

Also, induction stove would be ideal for a truck. The surface doesn't actually get hot, only the pot does.

Also, as far as the thermoelectric cooler goes. I have the Coleman one from Walmart. Key to that one working forever is to replace the outside fan to a much more reliable one. I picked up a giant 12v fan at RadioShack for $20 or so and wired it in instead of the original one. Since then, I've actually had to defrost it every once in a while. Would love to get that fridge/freezer combo and might someday, but $120 is a lot easier to swallow than $900.

 

According to a chart I just googled up, a 4.5 cubic foot dorm size fridge only pulls 26 watts. One of those and a decent 300 watt inverter, you'd be set for less than 200 bucks. That would depend on your company allowing inverters, and if you have the room. Some companies allow the passenger seat to be removed if you never have passengers. And with a fridge like that, you'd have a handy place to set the stove.

 

You guys need to learn about inverters and how they work.

First off with a compressor run fridge, there is something that is called startup current. YOU need to at least double the running wattage to be safe, so if the fridge says say 120 watts, I would venture to guess you need at least 15% more current to start it.

The hot plate will most like be the same because it is what is called an induction load.

 

True. However an 1800w induction cooktop will have settings to run it from 200-1800w. Or similar. Theoretically, you could start it at 200w and then turn it up.

 

That's true but there still is a possible issue with the 1800 watts rating - bear with me on this.

They designed these to use new switching power supplies and many of these designs are not the best - Chinese design for a customer who wanted 2500 of them yesterday. So it may be one of those designs where there is something called an inrush current and that inrush current could be as high or higher than 1800 watts it is rated for. So when you turn it on, it spikes to 1800 watts or more then goes to what ever you selected.

 

I've wondered about them induction cooktops too. My 2 big concerns, other than powering it, is what to do about all the splatter, and how to vent all the fumes out of the truck. There is an old joke. "Never fry bacon naked". Or in a truck, as it would make a heck of a mess. That's why I like a crockpot. Let mess than a splattering skillet. And cleaning the pans and stuff well enough they don't get gross, stinky, and make ya sick is another thing. With a crockpot, at least there are liners available.