From the Office to Trucking

First off Kenly TA is nothing like Wolcott.

Second off a simple google search tells you all about them.

» ScanGauge KR

 

The KR gauge has extra business-related values available. Those extras do take some configuration if you want to be bothered with that.

The main benefit to the KR version (IMO) is the instant mpg value is smoothed over an 8 second interval versus 1 second on the non-KR model, to make it more useful and easier to follow. Otherwise more or less the same thing.

I have the KR version bought over the counter at the Louisville show some years ago. The 4 values I run all the time are Instant mpg, avg mpg, boost psi, and water temp.

Also beware if you're running an ELD, you'll need a y-connector for the diagnostic port if your ELD didn't already come with one.

 

It could be the cooler stopped up or thermostat.
Do you have a pyro? If you have high egt's that will heat the oil up also.

 

With 200 degree water temp I doubt that's the cause,but you never know.

 

After careful thought going back to my gauges of the old iron, I tell you this.

Mr Pyro gets too hot. Say 1400 F. (You have a label with a limiting temperature and length of time) you cannot exceed this more than 5 minutes. Let's say the mountain you are on took 30 minutes to the top.

Mr Pyro is really hot now, creeping around 1500-1550 which is pretty much all it will give you on the gauge dial.

It heats the engine something fierce.

Your engine oil temperature starts to rise to at least 230 and refuses to stop rising slowly.

After a short time your engine pressure begins to drop. As the engine oil rises, it gets thinner and less effective. Therefore it begins to churn at the engine oil pump. And boom pressure begins to fall maybe half. (Which is not good, but not fatal yet....)

Then your Transmission temperature begins to rise, if it has not already due to the steep mountain pull. Your Drive axles, each one would follow the transmission temps in rising. All three have been hot during the pull. But your Mr Pyro is the one who screams ENOUGH IS ENOUGH FOR THE LOVE OF GOD> OW! Your Trans, both drive axles will begin a slow rise beyond normal int the oil temps marching upwards, always a little less than engine oil temp.

Especially if you have a oil cooler tied to your radiator coolant for the transmission, you will NOW see a increase in your coolant temperature. It's already pretty warm from the mountain pull. Now that your transmission needs a little more cooling, which your coolant and radiator can no longer give it's going to get hotter in the radiator.

At some point around 225 or so your truck probably will complain that it's just way too hot everywhere.

Hopefully you made the mountain and are drifting down the other side. Emphasis on drifting. Your pyro should cool to about 800 and hold. Your engine oil pressure should start returning to normal Your drive axles will cool first. Followed by the transmission temps then finally your engine oil temps will start cooling. Your engine oil pressure should start improving. THEN your coolant temp should start cooling below 215. Your engine fan needs to be on full time.

Shut off as much as you can electric wise, this lowers the load on your alternator, and thus lowers the load imposed on the engine belt.

When you are drifting, be slow enough that gravity does not cause you to speed up. Much. Have her in a light 1300 jacobs braking. She will do a sort of brapith braphith braph brapith.. NOT the full RPM maxed jacobs braking with the ringing bell from your valves or pistons. ( am a deaf man, but I can sure hear those bells when the jacobs is working really hard really fast.)

 

My vote is to change the oil cooler thermostat. Had a fld120 that did the same thing as you are having. Red top N14.

 

What was that all about.......... @x1Heavy..... are you at it again