Rockwell Diffs
Ive been babysitting a seeping seal on my front diff. Now it’s time to get it done.
As I checked my fluid, the fluid was low enough - I realized the back seal of my front diff is seeping a bit too. When researching this topic before I’ve heard that a plugged vent tube could cause oil to push out the seal because of combustition and pressure.
Is it a coincidence? That both seals are seeping? I don’t want to pay to fix these seals without watching my guys free that vent tube. (I don’t work on the driveline myself, as of now) .,.
How does one clean/free that vent tube. I think on mine there’s just a plug with a cap towards the top , and I think that’s the vent area.
Any thoughts, or experience on this? Thanks in advance for your time
Front diff seeping/leaking at both seals
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by HopeOverMope, Apr 15, 2018.
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The pics looks as though it may be leaking out past the yoke nut. Is it loose?When you do the new seals get new yoke nuts or at least clean and apply red locktite when installing.
The metal vents can be pulled and cleaned easy enough in the solvent tank. Sometimes if they get rusty the metal cap can fall off. Plus they are cheap enough just toss on a new one.xsetra and HopeOverMope Thank this. -
Thanks! I went back outside and moved the drive line up and down before the front diff, and SURE enough it was loose. I tried to draw a picture to show which way it was loose (Pictures are of the front diff in this post). This was tight not to long ago.
The drive line behind the front diff is tight.
What does this all mean? Especially with it seeping out both sides? Thanks for the tipsLast edited: Apr 15, 2018
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That yoke and universal joint are toast. You can see where the cap has been spinning in the yoke. Not good and it will never be tight again without replacement. The leak is coming through the yoke splines and out from behind the yoke nut.
HopeOverMope, Oxbow and snowman_w900 Thank this. -
So I’m guessing 44 is the yoke nut? They call it the pinion nut in my book.
ten4. So replace the yoke, the seal, and the u joint on the front side? I wonder if it’s the same for the back side too?Goodysnap Thanks this. -
The output yoke should be ok pending inspection but new nut and seal yes. New yokes are cheap insurance if seal grooves are present. Always do new strap kits on u joints when they come apart regardless if the u joint is changed.
J.S., Oxbow, spsauerland and 1 other person Thank this. -
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What is that??
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I know someone who replaced a u joint on his drive line, but didn’t replace the other u joint on the same section of the drive shaft; and in short order that truck bust the ujoint and ended with a wreck of wiring, abs wire harness and etc
So when I change the ujoint on the input side do I trace that part of the drive shaft up and replace the ujoint on the the other side too? -
I wouldn't say so. Some joints in certain positions are under more stress than others. I would inspect them all for spinning caps and or play as your doing. Greasing is very important and can make a u joint last a long time. My guess is the shaft was out previous and the straps were not replaced.
If I'm digging for a vibration and the shafts are out for balancing, no question change em all while it's out.Oxbow and HopeOverMope Thank this.
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