fuel additives

i decided to try 2 stroke oil in my 4x4 today, i put the 2 stroke mineral oil at a ratio of 600:1 there was a deffinate (and i mean it was very obvious) improvement in exhaust smoke reduction and the engine runs smoother at idle and it has better throttle response. dam i am very suprised that this did actually work. but then again i read alot of articles on adding 2 stroke to desiel and my findings were positive, hence why i gave it a try. very happy i did too

 

I have a 95' ser 60 Detroit. I am thinking of trying 2 stroke oil in my fuel. is there any harm it can do? would the 2 stroke smokeless kind I use in my chainsaw be the same, can I use it? thanks.

 

Yes, same thing, but it's cheaper at Walmart.

 

Well ive steped it up and last week ran 2 stroke at 600:1 in my Cummins, I noticed smoother idle, this week i increased 2 stroke mix up to 300:1 and idle is even smoother (but idle RPM increased by about 20RPM) power on take off (loaded trailer) is smoother and feels like i have an extra 20 to 30 HP?? and i normally would get a little soot coming out of stacks in the morning when i first start the engine cold, this has gone! yippy. Im going to monitor this 2 stroke useage very closely with engine oil samples and just see if it does allow me to increase my oil change interval. I also am monitoring fuel comsumption. From what ive read soot should be reduced by nearly 50%, so in theroy the oil change interval should increase also.

Thanks to Diesel Dave for info he provided me with

 

Yep that's where I buy my weed eater & chainsaw 2 stroke oil. in fact it's where I buy all my oil. thanks

 

# stroke oil mixed with fuel would burn very late in the cylinder so it would have 0 difference in Idle sound. It may coat the turbo turbine housing and impede the exhaust flow.
I have been around for a long time and seen the fancy machines that were sold to mix engine oil with fuel in 1960 era 12V71 Detroit's and 12V Cummins, even with all the fancy filters and stuff it destroyed the injectors.
I remember people putting Cow magnets in there fuel tanks and taping them to the fuel lines and swearing they got better mileage.
If the fuel additive gets you better mileage, It must make more power, from the same amount of fuel. If it did that there would be VIDEOs of a truck pulling 400 HP on the dyno and someone adding a bottle of additive, and the percentage of throttle would go down or if the throttle was locked in a position the HP, and speed would go up.
That is simple engineering.
Anyone ever seen such a VIDIO, who would have thought, such a simple test.
If you come from the south and are going north in the winter it might be a good idea to add an anti-gel. other than that they are BS. A cetain booster advances the timing, the fuel burns sooner, If the engine is made for a certain cetain number fuel and you change it, you will be adding a lot of cylinder temperature for no gain and a possible big expense.
Your engine is made to use #2 diesel, nothing else. ATF is made not to burn and has metals in it, Molybdenum.
Cat use to say buy clean fuel and keep it clean. no engine maker recommends any additive, and in 40 years of engine work I personally have never seen a problem solver in a bottle. I have repaired thousands of problems caused by believing CB talk or table talk and now what some pinhead says on the web.
In all my years I have never had a customer come in with a warranty claim and tell us he added anything to his fuel system, not once.
Take it for what it is worth, and have a nice day.

 

good info, but I don’t agree totally. with the advances in technology like the modern injector, and the reduction of sulphur in fuel I believe that there is a need to supplement in some form to replace lost lubrication, this is the main reason that im trying the use of 2 stroke oil. also I have found no technical data to support any adverse effects from doing so, if you are aware of any such data please advise. thankyou for your info

 

I have no facts on this topic also. What I do know is there is always an improvement to o.e.m. recommendations. just look at the fuel temp wire sys selling by co's other than cat for cat engines. look at what p.d.i. has done for cat owners & others, not to mention MR. Haney. I have talked to Detroit & the techs tell me Detroit does not recommend any additives in any of their engines. fine. many of drivers have been on the side of the road cause they had no anti gel when needed. but anti gel is a additive. mfrs will tell you you cannot get more h.p. out of a certain engine, but we know, not only can we get better h.p., but butter m.p.g. than mfrs engine parameters. truck mfgrs also do not want your engine lasting 1 million miles or more like mine. they have a vested interest in keeping a good rep, so their engines last, but they do not want million milers out there. 1 day 20 years ago I was driving from Chicago to AL in my 1981 cad. 6 cyl from factory. about 1/2 way thru the trip the engine started to sputter & I had no power, I could not get over 35 m.p.h. & smoking knocking. I had a friend with me luckily. he was what I would call an alley mechanic. he told me to pull over near a puddle of water. he found a plastic soda bottle & scoop up some rain water off the ground, told me to hold the gas pedal 1/4 way down. he removed the breather & drizzled the water down the carb. after 2 min the engine straightened out. not perfect, but 90 % better, was able to get to & keep hiwy speeds for the 400 mile trip. I know if I had asked a cad dealer or G.M. they would have told me not to pour water in the carb. it worked for me. those that improvise, overcome, adapt, are why we have the technology we have, not always by the book recipe. how about the regen engines? & so many other countless problems we read right on this board. never ending problems, with NO dealer or mfgr diagnosis or remedy other than throw parts at it. how's that for following mfgrs suggestions? I like the info on both sides. mfgr & people with out the box thinking. that's what I like about this board. info, info ,info. thanks to all who contribute, no matter what your opinion is.

 

Cooling the fuel to get HP is a proven benefit, I never understood how fooling the computer you had cool fuel, thicker instead of thinned out fuel helped I would have thought it would work better the other way around.
Adding water to a carbureted engine to blow out the carbon has been done for years and works great, hot engine, run unit at 1500 add water and advance throttle, adding water to regulate speed.
Fords 360's used in their 1 tons in the late 60,s you could use a water hose, and needed to.
You could test adding 2 cycle oil to fuel for a quieter Idle, running without oil test with meter Flute has a new one out that tests vibration and decibels, add 2 cycle oil wait for 5 minutes as it circulates or add fuel with oil to mix then do same test.
There is actually one additive that works as specified that is the injector cleaner that Cummins sells to be used before you set there injectors comes in a purple box or qt bottles.
There are lots of places that will throw parts at a problem, or as I call diagnosis by the ripping and tearing method, I never got into that I was lucky enough to have worked with very smart people, from a very early age, and worked with some of the best mechanics around that were willing to share there thoughts and options to a problem.
I always want to be able to confirm a problem, not just rip it apart and hope. that is why I am skeptical of the fuel additive claims of mileage increases.
Anti-gel is a fuel dealer problem and if you buy fuel in the south and go north in the winter you will need it. That is not sold as a mileage improving additive.

 

Johnp3, i have used the water method many times in the past and yes it does work great, i used to get the garden hose at a trickle and rev the engine up then let the water trickle into the carby (adjusting RPM as required) I even did this once just before pulling down a engine to rebuild it, so i could see just how well it cleaned out the carbon on the pistons and combustion chambers. old skool is good and i agree throwing parts is not the correct thing to do to a customers. Cummins have told me that if the computer does not tell them what is wrong with a engine that they have to ask the old techs what is wrong with the engine. LOL old skool is being lost because of computers.