Gloves you use

I get these from Quill.com

PIP Driver's Gloves, Economy Grade, Top Grain Cowhide, Medium, Tan, 1/Pr | Quill.com

 

Leather Wells Lamont from Walmart. They're comfortable, not, bulky, and for me last a long time.

 

I buy gloves from dollar tree. They're the grippy ruber with the fabric back side. Nice grip to hold on to air Chuck and when they're dirty I toss them.

Don't pay 40 bucks for something you're going to regret it when it's time to throw em out.

 

I've been thinking about this thread for a few days. I just checked QuickBooks. Last year I spent a tad over $300 on gloves. This year it's on track for about $200.

My "go to" every day working glove is a full grain leather gloves. NEVER deerskin or cowhide. I always am on the lookout for good deals on pigskin or sheepskin gloves.

Before the first use I always put on the gloves, get a dab of leather treatment, then "wash my hands" to get that leather grease into every square inch of leather surface. Then I place the gloves on the dash to bake on a sunny day. Then I do another treatment and let them bake. Now they are ready to "go in rotation".

I have two or three pair of treated leather gloves in rotation at any time. Working flatbed with oil field loads a brand new pair of WHITE sheepskin gloves can turn black with crude oil, grease, or other iniquities to Life in one load. It is what it is. I break out the new treated pair if I know the load won't be filthy.

Getting Thinsulate insulated goat, sheep, or pigskin gloves is a treat. I really start looking for deals on those at Ma and Pa truck stops in July. I have three pair of insulated leather gloves stored up.

Most of the abuse to leather in my way of doing flatbed work is fast winding my straps with a strap winder. It requires holding the strap to keep it centered on the winder. That can quickly tear holes in a less abrasion resistant leather, like deer skin. Goat, sheep, or pig are much more abrasion resistant.

Retired gloves go in my step box. Oily, filthy goves, gloves with holes from winding straps, etc. Those gloves are used as effective temporary "chocks" when loading "bottom tools" (drill collars and motors). It's important to keep the load centered on the deck. A large rock inside an old glove can usually stop an 8000 drill collars from rolling too far.

For fueling I use full, thick rubber gloves. It's best if these have "precurved" fingers (I used to design and field test gloves). After fueling I clean the gloves with paper towels before putting them back in my cab. I used to leave my fueling gloves in the side box, but on really cold days that's beyond unpleasant to stick my hands I gloves that are -20°F!!!!

Some of my customers require impact resistant gloves. Something like the OP posted. I have exactly one pair. Hate them. If I am going to break a finger handling ###### 2 7/8" drill pipe, it WON'T be because I wasn't using impact gloves. It's because I was ####ing STUPID.