Going to look at this truck next week

Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by feldsforever, Jul 7, 2020.

  1. Midwest Trucker

    Midwest Trucker Road Train Member

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    I’d make a hard pass. That truck is worth no more then $8,000 tops IMO.
     
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  3. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    You can stop by a Dealership with the vin#, and get any warranty work info. Any work done would should have date and mileage info.Also give you an idea of thd likelyhood that mileage is correct. It’s very hard to believe. The ecm can be plugged in, to check mileage, idle time, along with other info. I would be very careful. There’s always another deal right around the corner.
     
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  4. Dave_in_AZ

    Dave_in_AZ Road Train Member

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    I'll sell you my daily driver Cascadia, everything works, PM'd every 20K miles, for $20K.
     
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  5. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    I just looked at the Truck online. The interiors pretty beat up. Looks more like a 2 mil mile Truck. I wouldn’t buy it. I wouldn’t even go look at it. For just a little bit more, you can get a much nicer Truck. Nothings worse than spending money fixing a worthless Truck. The more you spend, the longer you have to keep it, the more you hate it, till you finally give up, and cut losses. Buy something you'll can live with for a few years. Small price to pay in the long run. I can tell by looking at the interior, that Trucks been abused. Usually a good sign of how it’s been Driven and maintained. Look for a Truck that’s well taken care of. This isn’t it. I don’t care if mileage is accurate. If so, it’s been ran short hard miles. You remind Me of myself, I was looking to buy an old low mileage International, it was cheap and I was trying to be practical. Thank God I didn’t. My Dad talked Me out if it. I didn’t know any better. He was right when he said, get a nice Truck that you like. You’ll be stuck with it for a while, makes the Job so much more enjoyable.
     
  6. feldsforever

    feldsforever Road Train Member

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    I'm not to serious about buying right this min. I will be way more serious between Jan and march.
    I have limited funds of 13 k. Till Feb then I will have a lil over 15k. So I'm trying to buy with out anyone but the bank holding a note.
    If you would be willing to hold a sixty day note. And your truck is a manual. And you still have it closer to January. Ill gladly come look at it. If not good luck on your sale.
     
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  7. feldsforever

    feldsforever Road Train Member

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    I'm glad you did look. I didn't want to flood this page with the pictures. It does look rough on the inside. Deal is my exit strategy is 3-5 years. So I don't want to spend to much. But don't want to be in the shop every other week either. Thank you for looking at it.
    And thank you everyone for all the responses. I am gonna go look at it. Even if its just for the experience. Out side of tires and air bags I have no idea what worn out or beat anything looks like, From a potential purchase stand point. So I need a base model if nothing else.
    My boss spoiled me. If I To be honest. It doesn't matter what it is. He will either pull me in and fix it. Or route me to a shop to get it done. He takes great care of his trucks. 24/7.
    I have learnt that much from him. No matter how small lets get it done asap.
     
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  8. Ridgeline

    Ridgeline Road Train Member

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    It is the test that is done on an engine under a full load to measure the pressure that gets past the piston rings, the higher the number, the more worn the rings, piston and/or cylinder is.

    People think it is at idle, but that's wrong.

    Each engine manufacturer has a number that is the max.

    The dyno measures the max horse power and torques of the engine, for example you have a 500hp rating and you are getting 400 hp out of it, there is a problem.

    The dyno puts a load on the engine and that's why you get both done at the same time.
     
  9. feldsforever

    feldsforever Road Train Member

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    Thank you ridgeline.
    Well drivers I gotta get up at 12:30 am local time so ima try and lay it down.
     
  10. Brandt

    Brandt Road Train Member

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    It's a 2004 so it going to be the first generation emissions. EGR valve was problem back then it seems. All the emissions stuff was not so good from 2002-2014. In 2002 we had first EGR and 2007 I believe was first DPF and 2010 was first DEF trucks. They had to move plastic parts on the engines because they were getting to hot. EGR valve was getting to hot if I remember and some got stuck. Not sure wear the EGR was on S60 but they had to moved to front of engine today to keep the EGR valve cool.

    Check the Bull gear on front of engine in the cover. They get lose and they keep the timing for pistons and the valves. It it goes bad it will destroy the engine. That was kinda the S60 weak point. I had 1999 no emissions S60 Bull gear last entire life of the engine to 1.4 million miles but I had it checked a couple time for play.
     
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  11. drivingmissdaisy

    drivingmissdaisy Road Train Member

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    I know for my 7.3 diesel Ford the blowby test is where you take off the oil fill cap and place a sheet of paper over it. If the paper is blown off the engine is worn and has "blowby" into the crankcase thus will need serious work soon.
     
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