It looks like it's gonna fall out, but it's tight as can be. No jury-rigging. Thanks Volvo designers for using your brain when designing this, the only radio "cubby hole" I don't ####ing hate. Truly able to accommodate pretty much any radio, as you can see.
The bracket bar inside can raise and lower, on screws, as needed.
Take note, International, PACCAR, and Freightliner...
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Hell's bells, somebody (Volvo) can do it right. (Radio mounting content)
Discussion in 'CB Radio Forum' started by volvo244t, May 6, 2019.
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rabbiporkchop Thanks this.
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wolverine11 Thanks this.
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I drove a T680 for a quick minute before the sketchiest termination I've ever suffered. (It wreaked of "we need to lay you off but don't want you collecting unemployment" but that's another can of worms.) I spent years wanting to drive a T680 only to be hugely disappointed once I did. This issue is one reason why.
wolverine11 Thanks this. -
And you can fit an export in a Cascadia overhead bin, it just requires a little Dremel work.
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At the last company I drove a Cascadia for, that would have been okay - but not at the first two. I just mounted on the dash using 3M dual-lock strips.
And you just gave me an idea for running my Palomar 225.shogun Thanks this. -
The space is available on FL & Paccar, but one may need to buy a replacement front panel to return it to stock, unmolested condition.
I did just this on a 367. Don’t recall the cost so it must not have been onerous.
Otherwise, I agree. There’s no call for dirty power or dirt-cheap coax either. Nor combining AM-FM radio with CB antenna when a cowl or roof mount is good for that.
The inclusion of a built-in Speaker is also a step in the right direction. Over the left ear (above drivers side glass) was on one model I’ve driven; that’s correct.
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shogun Thanks this.
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shogun Thanks this.
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You can run 8 gauge from the battery, hook the ground to the frame ground by the batteries or to that battery it’s grounded to. Zip tie the wires to the airlines underneath the cab, then run it up through the rubber grommet on the firewall. Squeeze it between the grab handle and go up the door, pop the A pillar off and hide it behind the cover.
Take a few screws out of the upper console behind the sun visor, just enough to pass the coax and 8 gauge thru. I ran a Predator 10k dual coil Short Whip tuned about 51-52 inches on that Volvo hoop mount. I ground the texture off the upper driver mirror arm, put the mount on, and ran a ground wire from one of the bolts to the mirror bolt that grounds the mirror electrical on the door. The antenna probably had a 15 degree tilt. 2 watts reflect total.
I ran a Connex 4300 with a 2290 driving a class C 4 pill running about 600-700 watts with a 40 amp inline fuse near the battery on the 8 gauge.
I had zero interference with anything electronic on the truck, never made an idiot light come on, or mess upthe Elogs.
It sat in the driver overhead bin just like this. That Radio Shack meter was between the amp and antenna. It’s the 21-634, surprisingly accurate at measuring avg power, peak, and swr. Almost like my Bird.
Last edited: May 7, 2019
mike5511, volvo244t and Slowmover1 Thank this.
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