Any chance you can take a picture of that bracket? I just want to know what to look for.
I am having second thoughts about the headache rack now. The thing is, my original plan was to install side stacks so I can install that big enclosed headache rack with separate closed compartments which can be locked. I'm now thinking instead of that, remove the rusted out busted APU and install like a large closed storage box. I live in Brooklyn NY and park my truck on the street, so with a regular open headache rack, someone can just steal all my equipment.
Help me build an exhaust
Discussion in 'Experienced Truckers' Advice' started by Antonovich, Sep 21, 2019.
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Another option would be an offset cabinet rack with room for your stack alongside it on the passenger side.
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Antonovich Thanks this.
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Ok this what I'm working with now. Seems like the cab airbags don't want to deflate... I take it since it'll be chassis mounted, I don't really need a flex pipe. Straight pipe to the back, Y-pipe, elbow pipes, stacks.
Current setupLast edited: Sep 24, 2019
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As far as the headache rack, this is what I was thinking of getting: Dyna Light Security Headache Rack With 3 Door Enclosures
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So this is what I would build. Looks like your headache rack will have 7” of clearance from the back of the rack to the front of the uprights. So with that I would mount it 2” from the cab giving you 9” of clearance for the stacks. So using 7” stacks that gives you an inch of clearance between the rack/stack and stack/cab. Using Lincoln Chromes catalog, https://d9hjv462jiw15.cloudfront.net/media/329108_lc-catalog-2017.pdf , I picked out the slim Peterbilt clamp PN: 45-00073 qty of 2 for mounting the top of the stack to the top of the cabinet and wide Peterbilt clamp PN: 50-00073 qty of 2 for mounting the bottom of the stack and the elbow to the bottom of the cabinet. I would use their universal 90* elbow with the 20 top/bottom leg as your cabinet looks to be about 17” above the frame so this should put the top of the pipe just underneath the cab. That is PN: L90007-E20-B20-1103 qty of 2. I choose the short 30 or western star style type of curved top stack PN: 507A-96-1103. This is an 8’ stack and should sit right around 12’6-13’ at the tip based off measurements of my frame height. I went with Lincoln Chrome on my truck because they where the only ones to offer a single piece pipe this long. Dynaflex stacks are a 2 piece design. The part numbers will change based on the pipe size so you’ll have to look at the catalog to see what size you want along with the cut of the top of the stack.
Now for the stuff underneath Im guessing you got 5” there now so it should work to put 5” back in there. I tried finding my old go to company for exh but cant find them so I went off to amazon. Found a place called Heavy duty Manufacturing. They have a Y-pipe PN: 14-500A qty of 1 90* elbow PN: 12-500FA qty of 2 and clamp PN: 20-500ES qty of like 8. You’ll need some 5” pipe to lineup the 5” elbows to the stack elbows from the Y-pipe and then I would do a short section of flex pipe from the elbow to the stack elbow just to allow for frame flex and all. Its kinda hard to picture it all over the internet with out drawings but I think I’ve painted an ok picture of what I think would look pretty decent and how I would lay my truck out if I was doing what you’re doing.Long FLD, ChevyCam and Antonovich Thank this. -
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Check out the newer trucks with the stacks behind the cab. With the DPF’s mounted to the frame there isnt the need to hold a lot of weight anymore, when running vertical exh.
ChevyCam and Antonovich Thank this. -
The Peterbilt clamps are like 4” wide so you could get some 4” or 6” by 1/8” thick aluminum C channel thats like 8’ long bolt it to the frame with 4 bolts, then have a flat plate welded into the channel to mount the clamps to, then make some cross braces out of angle in an X pattern from the top of the channel down to just above the frame. That should be sturdy enough to hold the pipes tell you do the headache rack.
Antonovich and ChevyCam Thank this.
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