I may need to replace one of the wheel bearings on my steer, there is noticeable noise when driving and more so when cornering. The oil is clean however that hub is noticeably hotter than the other.
And today while changing the breaks on the rear I found that one of wheel seals on the drive axle is leaking, so that bearing has come out too to replace the wheel seal.
I was told by the parts guy at the dealership to pre set to 200 back of a full turn then torque to 50lb and back off a quarter turn. Is this right for all bearings?
Help with Wheel Bearings setting
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by razor1983, Jun 28, 2016.
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The TMC method involves using a dial indicator and is very easy to do....roll hub backwards while tightening to 200 ft lbs, back off and tighten until you have .001" - .005" of "play".
razor1983 Thanks this. -
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purpleprime Thanks this.
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Thank you! I will give it a shot today, have the torque and dial indicator just in case my "ear indicator" is off.
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I didn't think a dial indicator was a "fancy" tool. $80 at Grainger about 15-20 years ago. I thought it was as necessary as tire irons and beer for a trucker. Used it for steering knuckle rebuild, crank shaft play check, S-cam play check, besides wheel bearings. I just feel a lot more confident going down the road knowing exactly what stuff is set at than hoping I guessed right.
Blackshack46 Thanks this. -
landlord Thanks this.
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Put bearings in dry,small coat of lube on seal contact area of axle housing, tighten wheel nuts up snug,wheel should have some drag,use only the inner nut at this time.using a big deadblow hammer, try to drive the wheel on further to remove any unseen slack in bearings. Inner could not be up to shoulder because of tight fit. Check for drag, repeat a couple times, if it's up you won't get slack, then back the inner nut about 1/8 to 1/4 turn .add lock and tighten the outer nut. Remember when you tighten the outer nut your putting more load on the bearings because of the slack in the threads of the inner nut. You may need to back the inner off a little more to acquire the slack you need. Some hubs have a filler plug on them to install oil at the bearings,if not elevate the axle so oil will run over to the newly installed bearings and seal. P.s. Dry bearings don't give good service
razor1983 Thanks this. -
So I did the rear yesterday, to my surprise there is only a single Axilok spindle nut there and a spacer in between the inner and outer bearing. I did it according to the manufacturers website 200lb initial, back 1/2 turn, then 75lbs and back off 1/8 for final. Checked with dial indicator free play is .003
It all went smooth and easy considering its my first time.Today its the front and break drums all around.
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