Hendrickson walking beams alignment
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by 2006gmcdmax, Feb 6, 2018.
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Well guys this past weekend I aligned the rears up. I pulled front tires sat axles on jack stands pull rear tires left them on bottle jacks. jacked rear drive even with front drive. Centered both axles to truck frame using a scissor jack. Left the weight of the truck on the walking beams the whole time. Right before I did this I loosened all bolts. top pad set bolts, and lock nuts and, the bolts that hold the top pad to the leaf spring. snugged it all to roughly 50ft pounds. then knocked springs equally to truck frame. both springs are exactly in line with truck frame. Mad sure both springs were same length also made sure both top boards were same distance from the front pins. I did all this to the 1/16 of the inch increments. tightened everything back down same sequence and torqued to spec Hendrickson spec.
Truck still pulls to right loaded or unloaded really bad loaded.
Took truck today got it aligned today still pulls to right.
So what changed from me putting leaf springs on the truck? it used to drive straight as an arrow before I replaced springs on the walking beams. -
Look at the bolts on the frame and the bolts that hold the spring down something is wrong here I’m assuming spring alignment pin
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I'm guessing that is your misalignment issue there. I've never had those springs out but I would assume they'd have a centre bolt like the steer axle springs to locate the spring in the centre of the saddle.
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He assumes correctly. Your spring pack could have a head on the center bolt that is smaller than the mating hole. The hole could also be elongated from being ran loose.
When you said and alignment shop aligned it I was stumped. What exactly did they align. Hendrickson and camel backs can be challenging.
You maybe able to get by for awhile be loosening the bolts. Then portapower or come a long the spring pack to center and retighten the bolts. Weight off of course.
One simple starting point is to measure the distance between axle flange centers. There are special tools for that however three 2X4's screwed together in a U can be marked at the center on each axle. Yes a team job. Then where are you at compared to the other side?AModelCat Thanks this. -
Even measuring rim to rim can give you a quick check to see if its close.
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Same sized rims edge to edge will give you a quick measurement with one person to see how far out it is. The way he says it drives, should be quick to figure out which way its mis aligned. Im not saying its acurate to the tenths, just a quick measurement to figure out whats up.
Im just suprised an alignment shop didnt catch itLast edited: Feb 16, 2018
BoxCarKidd Thanks this. -
Whoa!!! No war!
My two reasons are there is at least two different styles or manufactures of Budd rims. The flange can be a 1/4 inch different between them. If you have two of one on one side and two of the other on the other side that is a 1/2 inch.
Going back and looking at the pictures he has aluminum rims. That makes your procedure pretty safe baring a bent rim.
I am wondering if the alignment shop just did the front and considered the rear nonadjustable?pushbroom Thanks this. -
Sorry, didnt mean to come off harsh through typing. I overlooked the fact that the truck could easily have mismatched rims. Good to point out.
I wonder if that was the case with the shop assuming the rear couldnt be adjusted. Still though, wouldnt they have the fancy setups that meaure all axles?
Or maybe they have never work on a non air ride before.BoxCarKidd Thanks this.
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